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There have been a few threads on this subject, but I was wondering how high above the 'coals' the max flame should be in a gas simulated-coal fire. Also, is it OK for the flame to be substantially yellow? Friend has had one installed (sorry no model) in which the flames touch the rear metal...

Friend needs a fairly dated open-fronted gas fire removed so that a surround can be installed, followed by a new gas fire. The gas company came the other day and capped the supply at the meter (there is only the one gas appliance, the fire) but did not disconnect or cap the pipe at the fire...

Upgrading a CU in a cupboard built of single skin 15mm ply, which also forms the rear wall of a fitted wardrobe in the adjacent bedroom. The CU itself will be on a mounting board spaced about 5mm from the wall and will be metal, so reasonably safe against penetration, but the meter and tails...

Looking for a consumer unit, 10 or 12 way, that will accept 6x 3/4" and 2x 1" conduit outlets on the bottom edge, left to right in that order. Doesn't matter if there are a few extra knockouts as long as there are eight in that order. Metric equivalents are ok. Basically, to update an...

Friend was quoted around £2500-3000 to replace a gas combi boiler. This actually seems to be a typical price for the job. Yet, gas combis with concentric flues range from £400 to £800 at wholesalers, depending on quality and output. The job hardly looks that difficult, the only major...

Recently called-in a plumber to change a sticking Honeywell-style 2-port valve on HW side of boiler. He changed both HW and CH valves on the basis that 'if one was sticking the other would soon follow suit' although he didn't get my permission to do this. I'd been expecting him to charge...

Just bought a new combi micowave/grill, and although it's a good piece of kit, was dismayed to see that even today these appliances are STILL being made with a builtin time-of-day clock which goes into an error condition if the power is ever disconnected. Point of fact, a clock on a...

Proabably been asked a zillion times before.. but why are hot-water 'radiators' always painted white? Every physics book tells us that a dark-coloured surface will radiate about 50-100% more heat than a white or silver one at the same temperature. ..and while it's true that they aren't...

Situation: Large-ish (1.5m x1m) double radiator on microbore takeoffs from 15mm main feeds in hall. Inlet/outlet are at base. Rest of heating system works OK. Only the top half of the radiator is hot, and its heat output isn't really enough to cope with the weather we're getting just now...

Is it just me or does everyone find thixotropic "non-drip" paint to be utter junk? It seems like you can never achieve a good job with it- daub it on and it runs and sags, brush it out and you have a load of brushmarks. And, then it still runs some anyway! I know that the pros won't...