1.5mm² lighting cables - 3 lights- do they have to be in-line?

[Draughtsman]

I don't have any lights yet, so the in-line option with only 2 wires per terminal removes one possible problem later on.

The room incorporates a previous car port with an existing light fitting. The existing fitting has a 1.5mm² supply cable, I'm just moving the existing light fitting slightly, extending on, adding two more lights.

 

[Draughtsman]

Unlike the many and various ceiling rose diagrams out there I only have one cable coming in, there is currently no arrangement for other lights.

If I just continue the various colours onwards, replicating the 1st rose scheme so that there's live going along one side of the in line lights, and neutral on the other, then if one bulb fails all 3 lights won't go out?

 

[JohnW2]

Unlike the many and various ceiling rose diagrams out there I only have one cable coming in, there is currently no arrangement for other lights. ... If I just continue the various colours onwards, replicating the 1st rose scheme so that there's live going along one side of the in line lights, and neutral on the other, then if one bulb fails all 3 lights won't go out?

That's correct (they would not all go out). However, with what you describe, all 3 lights would be controlled by one switch (the one you currently have). Is that what you want? As you will see above, that's what I had assumed, but then others questioned whether it was necessarily what you wanted.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Draughtsman]

Yes John, all three running off one switch was intended. Thank you.

 

[Draughtsman]

The 'others'? OMG b-a-s hasn't spotted this thread, has he?

 

[JohnW2]

The 'others'? OMG b-a-s hasn't spotted this thread, has he?

He may have spotted it but it seems that he may not currently be in a position to respond.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Draughtsman]

This is now the 1st in the line (of 3). Possibly the neutral from the 1st light flex should, strictly speaking, go to the connector block on the left marked 'flex' with maybe a short neutral jumping from the 'neutral' block to the left side flex block?

This rose will be replaced but this is this the wiring arrangement that I was intending to take forward.

 

[JohnW2]

This is now the 1st in the line (of 3). Possibly the neutral from the 1st light flex should, strictly speaking, go to the connector block on the left marked 'flex' with maybe a short neutral jumping from the 'neutral' block to the left side flex block?

What you have is fine.

It would be 'nice' (although obviously not an electrical issue) if that neutral flex were blue or black (rather than brown!) - or, at least, had a bit of blue or black sleeving over it - but I suppose that's a bit pedantic!

Kind Regards, John

 

[Draughtsman]

What you have is fine.

It would be 'nice' (although obviously not an electrical issue) if that neutral flex were blue or black (rather than brown!) - or, at least, had a bit of blue or black sleeving over it - but I suppose that's a bit pedantic!

Kind Regards, John

ah yes, missed that.

 

[Notch7]

e may have spotted it but it seems that he may not currently be in a position to respond

I havent seen BAS in General Discussion for a week or two.

Im missing the insults

 

[markyd1]

extending a lighting circuit....rcd protection required....also a minor works cert

 

[Draughtsman]

extending a lighting circuit....rcd protection required....also a minor works cert

I recently had the olde worlde fuse box removed from the bathroom and replaced by a new rcd unit fitted in a kitchen cupboard, so this light is already on the new rcd.

Edit - The spark signed off the rcd, the rest of the house also passed muster and was signed off on the same cert.

 

[markyd1]

I recently had the olde worlde fuse box removed from the bathroom and replaced by a new rcd unit fitted in a kitchen cupboard, so this light is already on the new rcd.

what about the testing....zs...continuity....rcd trip time

 

[JohnW2]

what about the testing....zs...continuity....rcd trip time

If you are implying (undoubtedly correctly) that the great majority of DIYers would not have the ability/equipment to undertaken such 'required' testing, is it your view that no DIY electrical work should be done?

Let's face it, adding a couple of lights to an existing circuit, without even any new switching, is about as basic as electrical DIY work can become - so if it is felt that that should not be done by a DIYer (because of inability to properly test), then it's hard to see what DIY electrical work would be considered acceptable.

Kind Regards, John

 

[markyd1]

If you are implying (undoubtedly correctly) that the great majority of DIYers would not have the ability/equipment to undertaken such 'required' testing, is it your view that no DIY electrical work should be done?

Let's face it, adding a couple of lights to an existing circuit, without even any new switching, is about as basic as electrical DIY work can become - so if it is felt that that should not be done by a DIYer (because of inability to properly test), then it's hard to see what DIY electrical work would be considered acceptable.

Kind Regards, John

Thanks for your kind regards....but......the new downlights will come with instructions stating they should be fitted by a competent electrician....also they will prob come with push fit connectors...so if the op doesnt get a good connection with the cpc which can easily happen with push fit and the earth sleeving,then the end of line may not be protected.....so no rcd protection.....so testing required......and lastly.....REGS END OF