1 inch rad valve?

Pipe from the floor is 15mm, well - I say that but I don't know it for a fact... though when I moved a rad upstairs I used standard 15mil fittings ok. While the rads, valves and boiler are less than 10 years old I couldn't guarantee the pipes on the ground floor in screed were done at the same time... the valves are the same though...

My working plan is a standard 15mm-1/2 inch valve to screw into the existing tail via a 3/4 to 1/2 reducing bush: that sound ok?

Thanks again chaps!

:D
 
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There are two common types of valve
One has two identical sized nuts (same size as normal 15mm compression)
The other has a nut the same size as above,and one bigger nut that joins to the bit you screw into the radiator
Yours looks like the latter type,common part obtained any plumbers merchant/diy store,gold may be more difficult though
From the photo I cant see any need for a bush,but i may be wrong
 
That a quality valve you have :rolleyes:

Dig the indice out remove the handle and re-pack the gland.
 
Timmyturtle, but its 3/4 inch right? When you say its a standard valve what type is it and where can I get one!!?

doitall, I know they were a real bonus when we moved in - if I get the rad sand blasted - the one in the pic has already been done, the leaking/broken valve is the same but chrome in the bathroom - then I'd have a week to a fortnight to fix the existing valve. I'd definitely have a look, but there's only a certain number of times I'd want to drain and fill the system, if it leaks again ... I can't put a service valve on the pipework unfortunately since the pipes are in concrete...

:rolleyes:
 
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If you do as he suggests you dont need to drain down ..a towel is the most you need if anything
and much easier too :)

Yes it is 3/4 on the "outlet" 15mm "inlet" with the bit that screws into the rad having an allen key shape inside .its a standard(though posh) valve

Plumb center or even b and q etc,local hardware shop may even stock them,posh ones will be special order probably
 
If you do as he suggests you dont need to drain down ..a towel is the most you need if anything
and much easier too :)

Yes it is 3/4 on the "outlet" 15mm "inlet" with the bit that screws into the rad having an allen key shape inside .its a standard(though posh) valve

Plumb center or even b and q etc,local hardware shop may even stock them,posh ones will be special order probably

Ok, if I take your word for it that it won't p!ss gallons everywhere :D ... I know I can unscrew the top below the tap handle, I guess then the handle might come off but then how do you repack the gland? Never done anything like that so need some beginners instructions!!!

:eek:

... otherwise, I'm heading off to plumb center 2moro morning so thanks for the reassurance what type it is :) -- just in case I can't fix the existing posh one, no fear of me spending 100 notes on the replacement lol.
 
There's a screw under the indice.

The nut to the packing gland unscrews and you stuff the space with a couple of turns of loctite string or ptfe tape and put it all back together
 
It depends what you mean by "leaking"!

If you mean out of the stem seal:

First thing to try is to do up the blue nut - it may stop.
If not
open the tap fully
clean any scale etc you can, CAREFULLY - gold is probably laquered and only a very thin plating, chrome can come off too.

Undo the blue nut and slide it up the stem - you may need to take the handle off.
Take a 6" length of ptfe tape, twisted into string in your fingers. Wrap it round the stem under the nut
Replace the nut so it gets squashed where the green seal is
standardtap2.gif
 
If you expand on your description "the valve is nackered" the helpful gents on this site may be able to suggest a fix it in situ repair.

Tim

As you can see loads of helpful gents were typing away with a helpful hint and my reply was beaten to the page. ;)
 
That's a great diagram Chris R, cheers. Well, looking at that pic, it was leaking through the gland nut. And I tightened it until the leak stopped but the tap will not move and I guess the rad is locked off: not getting hot.

Because there was water leaking out the top I'm guessing it might turn into a torrent if I loosen the nut enough to repack the gland. Will have a go today anyway....!

:eek:

:D
 
Nothing an old towel cant handle

Just get everything ready before you undo it

Probably wont leak much anyway

Great diagram by the way

All this just to tighten a nut.......:)
 
Great drawing Chris, don't look much like a radiator valve though :evil:

Can you post it in the FAQ.
 
Great drawing Chris, don't look much like a radiator valve though :evil:

Can you post it in the FAQ.
 
Doitall, we've all double posted, but not one and a half hours apart!
 

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