Yes, but even 3A (690W at 230V!) is dramatically more than any table lamp or 'small device' actually draws. That's why I have a good stock of 1A ones
Agreed.
Kind Regards, John
10 Amp fused plug missing
- Thread starter Aurum1966
- Start date
Kind Regards, John
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16A.
Can only think a mistake or the 'cooker' was 16A.
Over that and they require more than one supply cable.
Schuko is 16A but I belive Italy commonly uses 10A sockets and I think there may be some other countries too. So 10A is probablly the limit for a "suitable for use anywhere in Europe on normal domestic sockets" device.
Actually I expect it won't.
IIRC the nominal current ratings for standard flex sizes are.
0.5mm² 3A
0.75mm² 6A (can be extended to 10A under specific conditions)
1 mm² 10A
1.25 mm² 13A
1.5 mm² 16A
I have relatives in Malaysia and have been going there since the 1970s. I noticed the lack of ring finals but was not aware of the 10 amp MCBs, will check next visit. I did meet a local electrical engineer on one visit and asked electrics. Basically they follow the IEE (now IET) regs and do use ring finals in industrial premises but not domestic.
I have never seen non fused BS1362 re wireable plugs there, all the plugs have 13amp fuses. The odd moulded lead set with a non fused moulded plug does slip in from China just as they do here. A bigger problem is that class 2 appliances are invariably fitted with 2 pin Europlugs and a special "plug key" is available for a few pence to open the shutters to allow this to go into a 13 amp socket. The "plug key" resembles the plug covers sold here but with two holes opposite the L and N to allow the Europlugs to enter. Double sockets seem rare as well. I've seen them for sale but never installed. Two singles seem to be fitted side by side. Back boxes don't seem to be used either. A hole is gouged in the wall and flush sockets fitted over it.
Heavy duty items like air cons and showers (showers are only 2.5 to 3 kW there but it seems enough in the climate) are usually fed via a BS 546 15 amp plug and socket on a separate circuit.
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Isn't there some confusion here between the rating of the appliance, the rating of the circuit and the rating of the OPD?
Obviously if there is only a 10A circuit and OPD then only appliances of up to 2.3kW can be used but that is quite adequate for kettles and washing machines etc, a lot will today be less.
They would have to manage which were on at the same time, and they do.
However, on a 16A circuit, nothing will change and the same applies with our 13A plugs.
Obviously if there is only a 10A circuit and OPD then only appliances of up to 2.3kW can be used but that is quite adequate for kettles and washing machines etc, a lot will today be less.
They would have to manage which were on at the same time, and they do.
However, on a 16A circuit, nothing will change and the same applies with our 13A plugs.
Yes, and moves are being made by the EU to reduce the consumption by appliances even further.
Don't we quite often have discussion about appliance flexes of 0.75 being fitted with our 13A plugs?
It seems to be accepted to have appliance flexes be rated a bit less than the overcurrent protection. Presumablly on the grounds that the appliance is unlikely to cause an overload. Exactly how much less seems to be less clear.
IIRC BS1363 sugests* that 0.5mm should be protected with a 3A fuse unless surge currents are a problem in which case a 5A fuse can be used. It suggests that all other sizes are OK to protect with a 13A fuse.
Yup, IIRC the 10A over 0.75mm subject to certain conditions was dug up in one of those threads as part of some EN standard or other.
* IIRC there is a able that lists conductor sizes and fuse ratings. The text referencing the table suggests that the table is only supposed to be "test conditions" but the footnote about 5A fuses with 0.5mm flex suggests otherwise. Read into that what you will.
Yes, but even 3A (690W at 230V!) is dramatically more than any table lamp or 'small device' actually draws. That's why I have a good stock of 1A ones
Kind Regards, John
Problem is if the table lamp has a traditional tungsten bulb when it blows it will take the fuse with it. Even a 3 amp will often go which is why I used to fit 5 amp to table lamps. No longer a problem with CFL and LED lamps though.
However with lamps with 3 touch dimmers a 3 amp or less was necessary as otherwise a failing lamp would take out the dimmer.
is it a problem that the fuse blows and the plasma discharge in the lamp ceases ?
It didn't happen so much with traditional incandescent lamps as the volume inside the glass was large and the concentration of metal vapour was too low for a plasma discharge to start. Modern lamps with very small envelopes almost always develop a plasma discharge, put the wrong fuse in and the discharge continues long enough to melt the glass. In a very few cases the lamp has exploded when vaporised glass bursts out of what is left of the envelope.
They are cheap to buy - if not to run.
How much do you save having LED in the toilet?
No, never been a fan of nor understand the appeal of reading in there.
How much do you save having LED in the toilet?
No, never been a fan of nor understand the appeal of reading in there.
because they are low tech and by connecting two is series you get a warm soft glow that is impossible to achived with anything else.
The heat they waste reduces the heating required inside the house and dries out th dampness from lanps outside the house.
Although not an inevitability, that certainly can happen - but, per bernard's comment, I don't really see it as "a problem". Furthermore, as has also been said, "traditional tungsten bulbs" are very much a dying breed - and, as you have said, the same problem does not usually arise with the much-more-common modern alternatives.
Kind Regards, John
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