130 HE heating fault...

12 Aug 2006
Reaction score
United Kingdom
Posting up just for some ideas and maybe someone had the same fault.

Basically HW ok and heating not on. so diverter valve not moving over is the logical explanation. Following the fault chart in the manual it takes me to the PCB, and, with how i can make it out its not sending power to the diverter valve fully.

But. The owner has said the last 3 months he has had a mixture of

- When running hot tap heating coming on.

- No HW but having CH

- No CH but having HW

So in my eyes the diverter valve was stuck in the middle on the first one so giving flow and heat to both as boiler firing up for HW.

And the other two it was stuck its respetive places for either HW or CH.

But, as the book says if not getting power on certain pins on diverter valve plug then PCB not functioning correctly. Ive had the valve head off and manually open the diverter so it is free (how free i dunno as a spring u have to push against)

Now in my eyes baxi books and when u ring up are cack. had problems before trying to find the definative problem etc..

so do i swap diverter head/ full valve OR new pcb.

Im edging to a new PCB but as unrefudable will be pi55ed if it dont work


thanks in advance.
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Some of this is either obvious or impossible I expect - sorry - but have you...

Removed actuator and watched inside bottom to see if it moves correctly for CH and HW.
Operated DV manually and seen if the diverter bit seems to be diverting correctly
Measured the voltages both ON and OFF load - sometimes the MI ones are flaky.
How do you get on with HRPC as was? Mine would take an actuator back if I said I didn't need it. You could plug it into the pcb and watch it move?

Thermistors can apparently do some daft things too...
I have had a funny fault on these a couple of times now.

Instead of the diverter valve moving and staying in either DHW or CH position it continues to cycle through both positions. This gives tepid water in DHW mode but in CH not to noticable but you can sometimes here the flow starting and stopping in the rads.

Both times it ended up been the diverter head at fault.

thanks for the answers guys..

and no i never took of the DV and watched it move :oops: :oops: cant believe i didint try that FFS. Well it was 8.30PM and i was doing him a favour having a quick look so im excused :LOL:

As for HRPC ive stopped using my local as went downhill bitgtime. Well the PC its attached to was useless so u kinda dont bother going any and out of your way etc.. I use a local firm now total heating and controls who are very good at looking after me and going out of their way.

Thanks to both replies ill have another mess with it. damn thing :evil:
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If it's the same as the head on some other boilers it'll read 9500 ohms tween centre and one end contact, or the other, depending which position it's in. WOuld be useful to know, because it's the cheapest...
You have to push the brass bit in, to see where it should be, it's sorta loose.
I took one apart and lots of bits of metal flew out....
It works by a wheel rotating, which has 2 humps 180º apart. So if the thing just went round and round it would do just what andsam says!
i did have the head off and pushed the spindle in etc..also with the head on u can manually open the heating side with the white leaver underneath..but man it hurts your thumb :evil: :LOL:

Cheers for theohms ill try remember it
Its a different one Chris!

Its the one with the white lever on the side which indicates which position its in.

BUT its not that simple! If you remove it from the valve it needs pressure on the actuator to show its position so thats not easily possible.

Most versions need the supply across two connections with the supply being applied to another contact as well for the other position.

They sometimes fail mechanically rather than electricially. The underlying valve often jams or becomes tight to move at all OR jams down and does not lift under its internal spring pressure.

hang on got bit lost. I realise its sprung inside and when pushed onto the body it pushes it back. The when its working correctly it pushes down and opens against he spindle to open the water flow to the heating side.

When i turn the heating on with the head off it dosent move or anything. And in the book it says is there 240v from N to P and from O to P ?

There is 240 from one but not the other so it indicates the PCB fauly. :confused:

The wetside of the valve ( not head) does move freely and let water through when maually done.

Think im gona go for the board :unsure:
Please let us know how you get on

Did have over 700 of these on a local council contract and the Pcb's rarely failed :!:
baxpoti said:
Please let us know how you get on

Did have over 700 of these on a local council contract and the Pcb's rarely failed :!:

****** thats bad to know :rolleyes: :!: :LOL:

Will report back but heres a good one for you. The same boiler ive replaced twice the lead to the gas valve :evil: Baxi were cluless, the book was cluless..i swapped part after part..gas valve..pcb.. checked sorts out. burner clean, probes etc etc..

and the lead has a diode in the end of it..which failed.i got a lead and it worked first time. WELL CHUFFED. less than a year later it went again with same fault.. hmm.. tried a few things but it must be the lead. and guess what IT WORKED! BAXI on the phone were pointless..how the hell we supposed to realise the diode can fail if they dont know.

and as for honeywell who make them :evil:
The gas valve lead normally only fails if it gets wet - drip from the air vent above
Yes sorry got the wrong baxi HE... This is the dear one. I've got one or two of those heads, I'll measure the resistance , if I find one soon!

Looks a bit like the early Isar one..
baxpoti said:
The gas valve lead normally only fails if it gets wet - drip from the air vent above

Yeah from what i remember it didnt get wet..but i get ya.

144 quid for the board :eek:
baxpoti said:
Please let us know how you get on

Did have over 700 of these on a local council contract and the Pcb's rarely failed :!:

Brand errosion strikes again :rolleyes:

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