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1903 property, plastering large cubboard, which technique best

Discussion in 'Plastering and Rendering' started by alex30, 8 Mar 2021.

  1. alex30

    alex30

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    I live in a 1903 sandstone first floor tenement flat. I need to plaster a large cubboard (6ft by 5ft by 2.5ft) which will house a combiboiler. What will be the best technique to plaster it? My flat has no problems with damp but it is a priority of mine to have this continue.

    2 walls are internal brick walls, a single skin of brick with the lime plaster applied directly. The other wall is an external stone wall , about 600mm thick , with a lime and lath finish internally.

    So is it best to take away the old plaster completely back to the brick and stone? The old plaster is shot in a number places, but is fine in others.

    How should I plaster the internal and external walls? Do I use plasterboard, if yes using batons or the dab method? Or should I use wet plaster, if so should it be lime plaster or modern plasters? If modern plasters which brand would be best to keep walls dry? I am aware of the additional difficulty and cost if lime plaster is needed so would be happy with alternatives if lime plaster is not strictly needed.

    Any help advice would be appreciated.
     
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  3. KenGMac

    KenGMac

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    alex30, good evening.

    My preference would be Plasterboard, less mess and faster than plaster, especially where Lime plaster is concerned.

    All plaster off, Lath and Plaster off

    External wall replace the vertical studs with tantalized timber if there is an air flow from below and an air space to the flat above then consider using Insulated plasterboard??

    Internal walls, depending on your degree of competence [not that I am in any way being disparaging ! ! !] either dot or use timber studs, my preference is to use stud, I find that I feel easier and get better results with timber stud

    Consider fitting a cove between ceiling and wall, makes the joint easier to complete and looks neater.

    Ken.
     
  4. Rageyboy91

    Rageyboy91

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    Ive been reading on this stuff recently I'm no expert but it's pretty clear the Rule of thumb Is whereever there is a solid external wall use the vapour permeable materials such as lime, it does make a difference if the external wall is rendered in cement also as youll trap the moisture inside.
    There are products out there like breathaplasta which are basically NHL type products you could go for a 40% or highier free lime content nhl plaster, (40 is pretty low but better than most in nhl) you could also try wood wool board which is permeable and can be directly plastered in lime putty, or a traditional three layered lime plaster approach, which would be the best. But these products are more than the modern solutions but lime can last 100s of years, compared too modern plasterboard abit of damp/ condensation behind that plaster and it will decay. Personally I would lime that bad boy up and be reassured knowing it would last forever pretty much.
     
  5. HERTS P&D

    HERTS P&D

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    Rageboy, did you drive a Vectra?

    Andy
     
  6. Rageyboy91

    Rageyboy91

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    Lol no a Robin Rilliant! But if that's a serious question and not a dig no I dont :).
     
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  8. HERTS P&D

    HERTS P&D

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    Robin Reliant? I didn't think their were any left. Have you got any pictures of it?

    Andy
     
  9. Nige F

    Nige F

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    Reliant Robin ......like the Escort Ford:rolleyes:
     
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  10. KenGMac

    KenGMac

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    Rageyboy91, good morning.

    I suggested plasterboard on the external masonry wall, which will have been constructed using A Lime mortar, Why?

    Because the O/P states that this eternal wall has lath and Plaster, there was no lime plaster on the masonry, as is the custom in these 1903 properties in the Midlothian area. Unless you have worked on these properties you may not know that there are no fire breaks at floor level between the old Lath and Plaster and the external walls, So?

    There generally is a slow small air flow between the rear of the lath and the inner face of the external masonry, more than enough to prevent moisture build up, where this construction fails because of a damp issue affecting the lath is when there is a build up of debris, mostly old bits of plaster that allow a bridge between wall and lath.

    A lot of the old [original] plaster was reinforced with Horse Hair and has lasted well but technology moves on we can now adapt more modern materials to be used with great effect even on older properties.

    As an aside, I have worked in and around Edinburgh on grade A listed, principle buildings, Art Galleries, Museums, Courts Etc. we did not use Lime anywhere at all, too costly, takes too long to dry, Etc. Stc.

    Ken.
     
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  11. Rageyboy91

    Rageyboy91

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    Hey man, thanks for sharing that I didnt know that. I was just sharing my thoughts on lime plaster and what i had picked up on my own research journey, I assure you I wasnt trying to discourage your post. just my 2 cents, sorry if I made you feel as if I was shooting down your advice, I did say I'm not an expert and I want too make that clear. I do stand by using lime for heritage properties and avoid any none vapour permable materials where possible.
     
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