2 quick plasterboard questions - foam adhesive + false roof

[k13wjd]

hi guys - quick question from a diyer !!!!

need to plasterboard an airing cuboard ( soon to have a combi fitted)

obviosly 3 walls, all 2.4m tall, all .8m wide. one is cast concrete, one is old plasterboard ( OLD+SCABBY) and the other likely to be 2x3 kiln dried timber at 12 inch gaps.

I would just dab+ dot it....but that would involve buying a few extras - a mixer, bucket, the plaster...etc.

So, i've heard some folk use expanding foam, or even "evogrip" to quickly bond it to the wall.

Any suggestions on makes of foam/technique????




Secondly, i also plan to lower the roof, mainly as the my roof is currently cast concrete, and as such looks crap. straight up plastering will quickly crack, and i can't fit a ceiling light.

My plan is basically to fix 2x3 battons using rawlplugs into the concrete - i guess my question is how far apart should the battons be...i was thinking around a foot apart, both directions. I'll be either bonding ( as advised above) or tacking plasterboard to this, before getting a plasterer in for a quick skim.


Once again, any advice welcome guys, im just a DIYer trying to do a half decent job on the cheap !

 

[1john]

using foam adhesive requires buying a foam gun £20 for a half tidy one, some gun cleaner (which hardly ever works)

Screw the plasterboard to the kiln dried timber, remove the old plasterboard and replace it on the other side and then on the cast concrete, if it is pretty flat it can be fixed with gripfill or pink grip or the like.

As for the ceilings, 400mm centers will be best in my opinion, doing things 'a foot or so' will become wastefull when it comes to boarding, the battens need to be set out to correspond with plasterboards so you end up with two edges of a plasterboard joining on one batten.

 

[k13wjd]

thanks for the advice mate.

I did read the back of a can of Polyfilla expanding foam, and it does state on the back of it uses include " fixing plasterboard".... But if your telling me evo grip is the stuff, then so be it..


In all fairness, the wall that is fibre board ( then 2 inch gap, then concrete) is the one that will hold the boiler ( at 44kg)....I might remove the fibreboard, and screw the plasterboard straight to the joists. This will allow me to fix the boiler in a more secure fashion.....

the concrete is flat as can be - and indeed shiny !!!!




whilst im here - the roof is 4.5 m2.....I guess i'll only be needing one join down the middle. How much should i expect a plasterer to take to tape/skim it + fit the coving ( i supply the materials )

 

[1john]

Well about half a day to skim it and about half a day to fit the coving, the only way to know is to get several quotes, always get references and if poss go to see their work, if they are tidy nice people they should have customers happy enough to sing their praises, you wanna get this right as you are going to be looking at the finish for a long time, or pouring more cash at the situation, the cheapest quote isn't always the best and on the same not neither is the most expensive.

 

[Micilin]

Well about half a day to skim it and about half a day to fit the coving, the only way to know is to get several quotes, always get references and if poss go to see their work, if they are tidy nice people they should have customers happy enough to sing their praises, you wanna get this right as you are going to be looking at the finish for a long time, or pouring more cash at the situation, the cheapest quote isn't always the best and on the same not neither is the most expensive.

That's it in a nutshell!

 

[k13wjd]

i have plastered a room myself, to a "good diy" standard, but it was a messy affair, took about a week, and made me NEVER want to do it again. a roof would be too much for me.

really, 1/2 a day to skim a 4.5m2 roof....it'd be pre sealed by me.......

i presume i cut the holes for the downlighters before the guy comes to skim it ?

i'm getting myself all in a fluster at what order i need to do this stuff in.

so far, ive got the following to do.

plumb a full central heating system, fit the boiler, plasterboard the roof, cupboard, wire the lights, fit a full bathroom suite inc whirlpool bath, move a partition wall by 2 ft. change all the floorboards in the bathroom, tile the room, then plaster the roof, and seal everything.


Thank god i've got house insurance !

 

[NickB_99]

i presume i cut the holes for the downlighters before the guy comes to skim it ?

Prob easy to cut them after. Will make smooth edges.

plumb a full central heating system, fit the boiler....

Remember Gas-Safe...

 

[k13wjd]

i presume i cut the holes for the downlighters before the guy comes to skim it ?

Prob easy to cut them after. Will make smooth edges.

plumb a full central heating system, fit the boiler....

Remember Gas-Safe...

go take a look at the plubming and heating forum....i got slated...even although i'm not doing the gas...and already have a guy who has agreed to come out and check the system, and commission the boiler/plumb the gas !!!!


were are doing the whole thing on a budget....£3k....and thats EVERYTHING, whirlpool bath, fitted units with wc+basin, every joint, nut screw, tool......everything down to the pipe clips !!!


Cast concrete house you see, most plumbers round here would rather not have the hastle of doing the job !!!

 

[1john]

You do realise that you need on average about 8" clearance from the top of the plasterboard for down lights and where as they do look attractive they cost a fortune to run and are quite inefficient at lighting rooms. Very important to consider this. Also I am hoping you are aware of Part P or the building regs. With your 3k budget perhaps you will end up skimming the ceiling yourself, your budget seems a bit small tbh, also back to the wiring front, it would be very sensible to get the existing wiring checked by having a PIR done on the installation if you plan on utilising any of it, it would be a shame to trash your property to rectify it afterwards after you have put all this hard work and effort into making it neat and tidy. Sorry if I come across condescending but primarily being an electrician I see these mistakes make quite often and it is devestating to people when they find out.

 

[k13wjd]

So on the downlighter side.....let me get this right.


i need an 8 inch cavity between my concrete roof, and the plasterboard which forms a new ceiling ????

if thats the case, then its a no go, because my window and door are only 4 inches below the current roof line.


they guy that does all my plastering will do the tape and skim for £70 - and come back at a later date and throw up my coving - foc.

 

[1john]

So on the downlighter side.....let me get this right.


i need an 8 inch cavity between my concrete roof, and the plasterboard which forms a new ceiling ????

if thats the case, then its a no go, because my window and door are only 4 inches below the current roof line.


they guy that does all my plastering will do the tape and skim for £70 - and come back at a later date and throw up my coving - foc.

Go for ceiling mounted lights, you can fit energy saving lamps, much better with less financial outlay and much lower running costs.

Bits of that spreads hand if you are happy with his work

 

[k13wjd]

Gets complex there. Cast concrete roof, so all the lights upstairs are mounted on walls !!!! however, fear not, as my new plan is going into action.


I'll borrow a router 2morrow, and channel a 15mm track into the roof, from the outside to the centre. Into this i will put a peice of 2.5mm twin and earth.

Then, i'll drill 5mm holes at 50cm intervals, both directions ( obviously avoiding the mains cable)

Rawl plugs in the holes - 2 peices of plasterboard, tube of evogrip on each.....32mm fine thread drywall screws lined up with the holes......And suddenly i have a new roof, with mains to the middle of it. Ready for plastering, and then painting !

 

[1john]

Why the evogrip when you are screwing it up? why are you using 2.5mm for lighting circuits?

 

[k13wjd]

Why the evogrip when you are screwing it up? why are you using 2.5mm for lighting circuits?

2.5mm because it's what ive got a huge reel of...and i beleive its whats already behind the walls for my lighting ( fairly old, Red+black )

I know the normal is 1mm.

I'll also be running a 2.5mm pair up to my new boiler, and indeed the socket for my bath.


your right, evogrip is likely an overkill. That's just my nature showing through.

I'll get my lady to hold it up whilst i screw it in !!!! Need to change the screws i bought today, as they are too long by around 4mm.


I like this forum...Questions are direct and straight to the point.

While im here, seems i need to re-plasterboard a few walls in my bathroom now i've removed the tiles. Easier to take the old ones off, or just dab and dot( or screw seeing as i have a box of 1000!) new ones on to the old ???



Once again, thanks for the input ( 1john)