2007 clio electric window issue

Discussion in 'Car Repairs / Maintenance' started by Brigadier, 20 Aug 2020.

  1. Brigadier

    Brigadier

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    Hello all,

    Two door. Driver's and passenger side switches on driver side door , passenger only on passenger side.

    Window operation reliable down, very iffy on the up.

    Replaced driver side switch.passenger side window then started playing up.

    So returned driver side switch back to old switch. Still playing up.


    Checked fuses. No 32 in place, and 36 blown. So, removed F36.

    Totally baffled now as, with neither electric window fuse in place, the windows still work (a bit).

    What now?
     
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  3. Burnerman

    Burnerman

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    Haha its French, Brig, always sent to test us!
    First I’d go for silicone spray on the glass runners, checking that the glass, when it does try, is rising the same front and back.
    It could be worth popping the door cards off to check for corrosion on the linkages if you have the time.....at least the motors do seem to work to a degree.
    Its also worth checking the wiring between body and door for fracture but you’ll need to lose the rubber grommeting to feel the conductors for bulges which indicates fracture.
    If you replace the fuses do they pop again?
    John :)
     
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  4. Avocet

    Avocet

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    Does it have a "one touch" facility, whereby the window will go all the way up (or down) without you keeping your finger on the switch all the time? Also, when you say it's "iffy" on the way up, do you mean it goes part way up and then reverses (or at least stops)?
     
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  5. Brigadier

    Brigadier

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    @Burnerman

    I'll try the spray , checking for breaks in the wiring etc.
    I haven't had chance to get any fuses yet, so don't know.

    @Avocet

    Going down is reliable, returning to closed is hit - and - miss

    I don't know about the one - touch thing ; the only time I've been in the car is after the "Daaaad..... " from the first - born ;)
     
  6. Winding motors are a known problem on Clios thankfully they're cheap and easy to replace. Might be the issue.
     
  7. Avocet

    Avocet

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    Ah - I know that feeling well! (I once talked my daughter through fuses and wires and all sorts when she had a window that wouldn't work, and it was only after quite a lot of fault finding that I asked: "er... does it, by any chance, have a child lock button to stop kids playing with the other windows"? There was a pause, followed by a "click" and the noise of a window working.... followed by a squeal of anguish and embarrassment from said daughter)!

    Anyway, the reason I asked, is that there might not be anything electrically wrong. On cars with a one-touch facility, there is a type approval requirement for the window to stop and reverse when it encounters an obstacle on the way up (but not down). This is after a spate of injuries where kids have their heads through a window when someone presses the button to put it up! Most manufacturers do this by monitoring the current that the window motor is drawing. If it exceeds a threshold, it assumes there's something stuck in there so it stops and / or reverses. Unfortunately, it can't tell whether the extra resistance is because the channel seals have got a bit sticky, or whether it's because there's a kid's head / finger stuck in there. For this reason, it's well worth trying Burnerman's silicone spray suggestion first. Get as long a "straw" as possible to stick in the spray can, and really make sure you get it as far down the channel seals as possible.
     
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  8. Brigadier

    Brigadier

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    @Avocet

    Cheers, makes sense.

    I'll get the door cards off over the weekend, oil the motors and mechanisms and silicone the runners, and see how that goes(y)
     
  9. Avocet

    Avocet

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    I'd try the spray down the channels first, you might save yourself a load of work! The rest of the mechanism shouldn't have much friction in it anyway.
     
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  11. Brigadier

    Brigadier

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    @Avocet

    Right.

    From what I can see , no one - touch mechanism .


    Got the door cards off, and Siliconed the runners on the drivers side.


    Put new fuse in f36, this popped the moment I touched the driver's side passenger window switch.


    Got the drivers window up and down a couple of times while holding the connectors tight to the switch.

    Then it went down, and refuses to go back up.
    Clicks when I operate the drivers side driver window switch, but no movement at all.


    Can I bypass the switch with some wire, just to close the window again? If so, which terminals?

    Or, can I run 12v to the window motor direct, and close the window that way? If so, what power supply , and to which terminals of the motor?

    Or, can I crank it shut manually somehow?
     
  12. Avocet

    Avocet

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    Ah, bad luck. Does look electrical then.

    Should be two heavy wires going to the motor on the window lift. Putting 12v across them one way, will put it up. Reverse the polarity and it will go down.

    Sounds like you have a dead short somewhere, if the fuse pops instantly. Check for broken wires where they go from the door pillar to the door. Usually inside a convoluted rubber conduit. It's a common problem on some makes of car, but I don't know if Clios are prone to it. Probably worth asking on some Renault forums to see if it's a common problem?
     
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  13. If putting 12v across the motor terminals Might it be advisable to utilise a fuse in case the short is in the motor itself?
     
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  14. Burnerman

    Burnerman

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    I'm maybe overlapping some of the advice here, but I'd disconnect the motor inside the door, then put new fuses in.....if it blows straight away then its the wiring going to it but if it holds it could be the motor itself.
    How easy is it to get the motor out and onto the bench? There's a chance it's all gummed up inside. Usually the motor drives a worm which turns a pinion, therefore you can't lift the window manually as a pinion can't drive a worm, if you get my drift. With the motor out it will be possible to lift the glass up and wedge it in place I think.
    John :)
     
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  15. Don't know if it's changed much by on my 2000 Clio, getting the window motor out was a piece of cake. (must be easy if I could do it)
     
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  16. Burnerman

    Burnerman

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    Only done a 1997 year model Eddie but I don't remember any real issues....it was corroded to hell inside though.
    John :)
     
  17. Brigadier

    Brigadier

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    Update :

    The 12:46pm post was just after first - born had been hovering around me, because he was going out in said car.

    So, I apologised for not being able to put his window up, put the door cards back on, and sent him on his way.

    When I got home from swimming at 1600, his car was back on the drive, and the window was up!

    He reckoned it closed as soon as he pulled the switch up.

    My only thoughts on this are :

    - the running engine?

    Or, more likely ,

    - a fault on a wire from the front wing to the door (which rectified itself - enough - when the door was closed).

    Maybe?
     
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