24kw with stone firplace

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Didnt know where to stick this thread because its a construction and plumbing one so just decided to pop it in here.

A friend of mine who built a house many years ago faced the house with stone and also built the garden wall in same stone. He was left with 9sqm of the stuff and had it stored away in his shed. Now he wants rid of it because its taking up space he needs and asked me did i want it.

Its just the exact amount i need for a large fireplace. A few questions i have first before i built it.

* Seeing as i have no chimney breast in my living room, but want the look of a chimney breast, will i have to build a block wall first so i can have a plumed wall to work too with the stone or can i get away with just building the stone. There will be a tv going on this fireplace.

* Can i build it on top of the screed floor seeing as it aint a structural wall and wouldnt need its own foundations.

*I will be upgrading it in the coming years with a 24kw stove. I know i need 2 pipes , one for flow and the other return. Isnt it inch pipe i use and do i have to use soldered joints or compression (or does it even matter what one i use). I will run these pipes in now and direct them towards my heating cylinder and leave there untill upgrading it.

* I know i will need a pump for the stove, can this be placed near the cylinder or does it have to be right next to the stove. If so, what wire will i need to be installed beside the pipes. ( i know its illegal to attempt your own electrical work, but im only leaving a wire in place for future use and will get an electrician in when the time comes to wire the pump in)
 
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A good stone mason would just build direct with the stone.

Using your floor as a foundation may be dodgy if insulation is below the screed.

Directly above the stove on the next floor is the best location for controls, stats, pump, cylinder, heat leak rad etc.
 
A good stone mason would just build direct with the stone.

Using your floor as a foundation may be dodgy if insulation is below the screed.

Directly above the stove on the next floor is the best location for controls, stats, pump, cylinder, heat leak rad etc.


Ill be building this fireplace myself. Im a blocklayer/plasterer/tiler so would build this decent enough.

There is a concrete hearth that i was going to build on, i was thinking maybe that would spread the weight.

Theres a bedroom right above it
 
You'll be tied to where ever the hot press is. Unless you do what I done and build a new one.
A boiler stove that size will need a lot of fuel. Think steam locomotive!

The hydronics really only need to remain upstairs unless no other form of heating is in place.
 
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You'll be tied to where ever the hot press is. Unless you do what I done and build a new one.
A boiler stove that size will need a lot of fuel. Think steam locomotive!

The hydronics really only need to remain upstairs unless no other form of heating is in place.


Heres a rough sketch of where the hot press is. I have put a red line in to show where im going to run the pipe. I will be able to get this pipe in with little disturbance. Seeing as ill need a 5m run each pipe, i can take 1 roof tile off, cut a small hole in my felt and run it right across above the ceiling and cut a small piece of plasterbaord out where the plasterboard is so i can connect the plumbing fitting. Can i use pushfit fittings or does it have to be soldered or compression


emnt6.png
 
That is the sketch of the upstairs(dormer) and the fireplace will be in the living room downstairs.
 
A boiler stove that size will need a lot of fuel. Think steam locomotive!

LOL, tell me about it . Its a 2500sq ft house. 5 bed, 1 study, 2 bathrooms,2 ensuites etc.. Already have oil heating this house but now want a duel system.
 
Definitely no push fit on this.
Soldered, compression or brazed with oxy acetylene.

28mm copper and the bends need to be pulled. Gentle uphill gradient on the flow and down on the return.
 
Definitely no push fit on this.
Soldered, compression or brazed with oxy acetylene.

28mm copper and the bends need to be pulled. Gentle uphill gradient on the flow and down on the return.


What do you mean when you say gentle uphill gradient on the flow and down on the return.
 
Both flow and return rise to the cylinder but one flow is uphill and the other downhill.
 

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