Installing a wood burning boiler stove

[rachelfarmer]

Hi there,

We are installing a Stanley Lismore wood burning boiler stove.

We are trying to figure out the installation process. We are planning on laying all the plumbing work ourselves and getting a plumbing (my uncle) in to solder joints etc.

We are looking to drill an access hole 9inchs above the existing tongue plate in the fireplace to get the stoves flue into the chimney. Are there are special ways to place the pipe through. Would we need to sleeve the pipe and use fire rope etc..

Also there are 2 pipes out of the back of the stove we are running them up the wall (stanadard height ceilings) and along the floor boards on the 1st floor level if not at a slight gradient.

These pipes I am connecting to the cylinder and teeing off to the radiators pipes aswell.

We have a single coil cylinder and we are not changing it.

We are also building a chimney breast arond the stove. Would people recommend this to be done in block or fire proof plasterboard and alloy studs.

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If anybody could give me a better idea would be appreciated as there are 100 ways of doing it. It is just getting the right balance to allow the heat to radiate downstairs radiators.

House Diagram

• rachelfarmer
• 6 Aug 2012
• 1

This a diagram of our house. It shows the stove and then the upstairs to show the way we are...

 

[mysteryman]

From the nature of your enquiry, you have much to learn. You ought to take advice from someone with some experience in these matters, or give more detail. For instance, are you wanting this to work without a pump? It can be done, with careful layout. There was a recent thread with some info on this site.

You could end up with a dangerous situation, please be sure about what you are doing.

 

[rachelfarmer]

I should have waited for the hubby to come home from work I suppose before posting.. I was trying to remember all he had discussed with me to write but I may have forgot bits and pieces.

Well from my understanding for safety reasons it should run on gravity from the stove to cylinder in case of electricity outage.. So we are just running the pipes up to the single coil cylinder on gravity.

My husband has the hands on him to do it and the ability its just he doubts himself with no call to. I think he just wants to hear from somebody else that his way is ok.

I will get him to do detailed drawings etc when he gets home this evening.

 

[Karis]

Are you aware that installing a solid fuel stove is controlled & notifyable building work unless you use a HETAS registered installer? You can DIY a conventional stove install but you need to submit a Building Notice, have it inspected, tested & certified as safe & compliant. Do a search in the Building Forum, lots of archive threads in there about solid fuel stove installations. Please remember that carbon monoxide is a silent killer, get the install wrong & the consequences for you & your family could be dire, it happens every year! You may also invalidate your house insurance in the event of a problem related to the stove install.

More importantly, fitting a solid fuel stove/back boiler system is rather more involved & not just a question of simply connecting pipes into an existing storage tank & heating system. If you get it wrong or fail to fit the required safety devices, you could blow your house up! But there are others on the Heating Forum more qualified to explain this than me.

You can’t use gypsum based plaster or plasterboard either, it wont survive temperatures of more than around 50 degrees C. Even Fireline (fireproof PB as you call it) is only suitable for a one off exposure to fire, its still gypsum based & will not withstand regular exposure to temperatures of more than 50 degrees. You need to use a silica based fireboard suitably supported; what type of “alloy studs” were you thinking of? Block work isn’t suitable where high temperatures are concerned either, bricks only in the area immediately around the stove. Any finish where temperatures exceed 50 degrees must be suitable & gypsum based plaster products are not suitable, you need to use either a specialist heat proof render & plaster (Vitcas) or a sand/cement/lime render.

 

[rachelfarmer]

We are working to building control except they require a twin coil cylinder that is the only requirement we are not adhering to.

We are doing the fireplace opening to requirements.

And it is also a requirement to run as a gravity system.

We believe it is a requirement for the flue to to fitted through a sleeve aswell to allow expansion if there was just fire cement put round it, it would crack over time allowing gas to escape.

We had thought of blockwork the walls surrounding the stove and rendering in lime plaster or placing more expensive vermiculite fire board instead of plaster.

Then building the rest with the fireplaster board - as for the actual studs I am unaware of the precise name of them they are metal verticals instead of the traditional wooden ones.

I will get my husband to update this all tonight and try and make more sense of it for you all.

Sorry and thanks