2D Compact Fluorescent Repair For Bathroom

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Hello, my bathroom light stoped working all of a sudden, assumed light bulb died, tried another one did not work.

The light bulb flickers tiny amount of light before going completely dead, i do not not know if its the base on the celling or wire issues.

but if i take the same light to another w/c room it works fine .

Did not do any sort of re-wiring just opened the base plate of the light to see if anything burned saw some sort of small transformer and thats it.

Is their any testing i can do to see what is at fault or any sort of investigating i should do like check lightbulb power

Thanks in advance
 
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Did you definatley get the correct replacement lamp?

You need to check the wattage is the same, and also make sure youve got a lamp with the correct amount of pins. They come in 2 pin and 4 pin versions.

If you do have the correct lamp then the next thing to do is test for voltage it the incomming terminals on the fitting. If this is of then the control gear has failed, and you will need a replacement light fitting. :(
 
Depends what type of light but my 2d 4pin 28w bulbs kept on blowing and i traced the fault back to a part called a ballast.
For sum reason all 7 ballasts were knackered.

Changed them and put energy saving 2d bulbs in and worked fine
 
Of course it can be tested but you ask is there any testing I can do and I have no idea of your ability.

The lamp consists of two or three units one of course is the bulb or tube may be a better name and the others are the control and starting device/s.

There are a number of different ways to control and start a florescent tube. The old method was a ballast and starter.

The ballast has two jobs one is to store power so as the starter fires it gives a high voltage spike to start the tube working and second is once working it limits due to it's internal resistance the current that can flow through the lamp. This is an inefficient way of doing it.

So the second device converts the AC to DC then back to AC at a high frequency then transforms it to voltage required samples to output and adjusts it for max light with min power usage.

To test these devices which ever kind is normally done by replacing and seeing if it works.

So the only real tests are to find if there is power at the fitting. Since you say light flickers then likely there is but may not be enough.

Here comes the point of how good are you. Swapping the starter if it has one is easy. After that it down to testing supply with a meter and swapping parts one lamp to the other.

At the price of lamps likely best idea is to swap whole lamp. But it's all down to your ability and as I said to start with I don't know that.
 
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Most 2D fittings only consist of the start/choke and the lamp.
The most common choke used is the Tridonic EC16 (for a 16W 2D lamp).

They can be bought from lots of places like this.
 
thanks all for reply, im going to buy a new lamp 16w 2pin 2d and try it if i need to buy ballast too.

ballast has to wait till tuesday as the electrical warehouse is closed
 
Some 2D fittings have starters. You have changed it, I guess?
 
i did find the starter but i have not changed it yet, post result tuesday after i go to the electrical warehouse and the start is the link posted buy Taylortwocities
 

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