3 dial dimmer switch for 3 seperate lighting circuits

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Hi there,
As the subject above suggests, i am looking to replace a 3 dial dimmer for a kitchen. I would like the 3 dial dimmer to operate the ceiling light, which it already is, and the lights in the wall cabinets on one dial and lights for under cabinet (worktop) lighting on the remaining dial. Proving tricky to wire up!! The feed coming in from fusebox 3 core T&E and has 4 wires E, L, N and yellow (additional power). I have chased the wall and recessed two runs of 2.5mm cable for the above and below wall cab lights. Anyone have an idea as to how this set up can work. Any diagrams would be a great help.

Kind Regards

Nile
 
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Are you

1) bringing the feed to the switch first, in which case you are doing loop-through switch, and N and E will have to be connected through from feed to each lighting branch with choc-bloc or similar in the backbox, if need be cable tied back to the earth lug so it cant flap into anything delicate, and live going into the three dimmers then onto the lights or

2)are you doing loop throgh rose (feed to rose, then only live and dimmed live in 2 core wire going to switch.) In which case see reference section.
3) none of the above, please post a picture.

can you tell I used to work in education... :LOL:
seriously
If doing 1 , which it sounds like use a nice deep backbox, the thin ones are only good for the simpler wiring configutrations, like loop-through rose.
Whatever, sketch a wiring diagram before you start, and make sure you can understand it.
 
I'll bet that some of those lights will be ELV - have you checked that the transformers are suitable for dimming, and that the dimmer switch is suitable for dimming ELV transformers, and that it is the right sort for your particular ones, and that you've taken account of any necessary derating for ELV or mains halogens? The latter is particularly important with multi-gang dimmers because of heat.
 
Hi all,
Thanks for your swift responses. I have already installed a deep recessed backbox. I have enough space to fit 60Amp connector strips!!! Joke!

MapJ1 - I will be doing loop through switching by taking the the incoming feed to first switch, and then looping this across to the remaining 2 dimmer dials. When u say chocbloc, do u refer to using connector strips, say minimum 15amps and wiring them up this way instead of wiring them into L1 & L2 respectivley???

Ban-all-sheds - Not sure if the cabinet lights are ELV? What is ELV?
I have already tried connecting the lights and have the ceiling working and one cabinet light working sweet, but it's the remaining one i have to sort. I'm pretty sure the dimmer switch is compatible. I'll double check.

The only issue i have is that i have 8 wires that are required, dropping 2 earths as in the instructions they are not needed. I have 4 from the 3 core & earth feed. Where does the yellow wire go as this is for additional power? Any chance of a wiring diagram or basic explanation as to how to wire this setup?

Thanks again for your time

Regards
Nile
 
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niley said:
Not sure if the cabinet lights are ELV? What is ELV?
Not exceeding 50V AC or 120V DC. In practice, 99.9999999999999% of the time (approximately) it means 12V lighting.

The only issue i have is that i have 8 wires that are required, dropping 2 earths as in the instructions they are not needed. I have 4 from the 3 core & earth feed. Where does the yellow wire go as this is for additional power? Any chance of a wiring diagram or basic explanation as to how to wire this setup?
1) Even if a light does not require an earth connection, you should still take the earth core to it, and then make it safe in a bit of choc-block, and connect it to the circuit earth at the other end.
2) Not sure what you mean by "8 wires that are required,... I have 4 from the 3 core & earth feed".
 
3 core and earth has 4 wires? No? In total with the two circuits for upper and lower cabinet lighting i have 8 wires excluding the earths for the ELV lights. 3 red L's, 1 blue, 1 yellow, 3 earths and 2 blacks
 
The only way to be sure is to look at the other end of the wire. Personally I use yellow as the common in 2 way circuits, or as steady live (PIR sensor bypass ) switching for security lights. However, there is no one size fits all colour convention opnce you get beeyond the normal L,N, E colours.. (and with the new colours I'm sure it is set to get worse....)
Can you post either a picture or sketch - descriptions with words are a bit difficult to follow... you know this has happened when the help dries up!
 

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