6inch gap to plaster around patio door.

[46philh]

Had a patio door replaced and have got a 6inch gap (width) all the way around to sort out.

The thickness from the brick the edge of existing plaster is about 15mm.

Was going to put plasterboard in the gap, tape joint between that and existing plaster work and then easifil (already got 1/2 bag)

How should I fix the plasterboard to the brick ? (No space to batten it.)

Thanks.

 

[dmplastering]

Had a patio door replaced and have got a 6inch gap (width) all the way around to sort out.

The thickness from the brick the edge of existing plaster is about 15mm.

Was going to put plasterboard in the gap, tape pint between that and existing plaster work and then easifil (already got 1/2 bag)

How should I fix the plasterboard to the brick ? (No space to batten it.)

Thanks.

Why not just use expanding foam then cut back next day and easifill

 

[huddsspread]

use plasterboard adhesive as thin as you can, stick some 9.5mm plasterboard on it, skim it, or easi fill the joints.

 

[46philh]

The gap above the window is 30mm from the metal lintel to the base of the other plaster.

How can I fix plaster board to this metal lintel ?

View media item 44319 View media item 44318


note is a bungalow so guess that's why the lintel looks slim

 

[peaps]

The gap above the window is 30mm from the metal lintel to the base of the other plaster.

How can I fix plaster board to this metal lintel ?

View media item 44319 View media item 44318


note is a bungalow so guess that's why the lintel looks slim

Cut the top board out first, it needs to fit the gap, make it snug. The cut the sides again making it snug. Cut a bit of wood long enough so you can prop up the top, cut some wood to fit across the top. now mix up some board adhesive and stick the top leaving a couple of mm for skim and prop it with the wood, then stick the sides with adhesive leaving enough room for skim again. Place one bit of wood across the top to support the PB and prop it.

Then skim

 

[46philh]

Thanks for your help.

was also not sure before if board adhesive would stick to the metal and how thick it could put.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/plasterboard-adhesive/invt/220600/

 

[roughcaster]

I'd certainly fill in the soffit at the top of the door with plasterboard then skim, but not either side of the door. Keep it the same as the original, and do it with plaster.
If it was me, i'd trim back the 2 vertical edges of the existing plaster by an inch or so, then dust off/wet down, and bring it out to the original thickness, with Hardwall or Bonding coat plaster, then skim it over with multi.
You've spent all that money on a brand new patio door, so why bodge the job patching onto the blockwork around the door with plasterboard. It's only a small job i know, but get it done properly.

Edit: Just noticed your query about sticking to metal.The holes in the lintel will grab the adhesive, but you could also use a tube of grab adhesive: "Sticks Like Sh*t", it'll stick no problem. Still support it though until it's cured.

 

[peaps]

I guessed he was a novice and thought it would be the easier route to take. Not a bodge IMO.

 

[peaps]

Thanks for your help.

was also not sure before if board adhesive would stick to the metal and how thick it could put.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/plasterboard-adhesive/invt/220600/[/QUOTE]

Yes it will stick to metal. Just dab it onto the board and push it in place allowing 2mm room to skim. Like the above post suggests, you can plaster the sides but I personally wouldn't use bonding or hardwall near a window or outside wall. Sand and cement would be better.

But you will have a nice sheet of PB so why waste it? many houses are constructed with PB reveals.

 

[roughcaster]

Not a bodge IMO.

Most would disagree!!
Better to repair like for like,, plaster,render etc. Thousands of houses out there also have reveals plastered with bonding/hardwall with no problems too..

 

[peaps]

Not a bodge IMO.

Most would disagree!! Better to repair like for like.

If you look it has skim bead on it so it's never had any plaster on it.

Would have to agree with like for like in old houses. you have more of a choice with more modern construction

 

[roughcaster]

You don't have to look for a skim bead to see it's never been plastered, the clean blockwork tells you that.

 

[peaps]

You don't have to look for a skim bead to see it's never been plastered, the clean blockwork tells you that.

either way..?

 

[Micilin]

If you stick the head you have one complete piece of material that is the same, the joint ie external anle is covered by a bead. Same aplies to a full reveal, especially if you need to cover a cavity (using either adhesive - I'd imagine a tube is less wasteful than a bag?)

However, sticking a board beside floating give two dissimliar materials and you are introducing a straight vertical joint that you need to scrim, but which is not present if you float it with solid material.

In the picture it looks like there is not enough room to stick a board on the verticals ie the depth of about 15 mm (as stated) means it might be hard to stick 9.5 board allowing 3mm skim - this gives only about 2-3 mm of adhesive which is okay on a flat lentil but not always on blockwork

 

[roughcaster]

sticking a board beside floating give two dissimliar materials and you are introducing a straight vertical joint that you need to scrim, but which is not present if you float it with solid material.

Definitely! More bother than it's worth,,, i'd bring it out flush with Hardwall/Bonding etc,, anything but plasterboard.