9sqm kitchen floor needs levelling

[kjacko]

Hi all,
So I need to level 9sqm of a kitchen that also flows through to a 19sqm reception room.
Now, the kitchen starts off concrete, then goes to those ancient vinyl type tiles on what looks like a bitumen base (I’ve scraped most of these off now), then an open archway into the reception which is covered in 20mm thick square tiles, again these are ancient. House was built in 1901. It also has some concrete areas that has been painted.
Had a quote from somene who said we need a “smoothing” compound, then a sealer (f-ball rings a bell), then the screed/levelling compound. All 3 would add around 16-20mm of depth.
The quote came in at over £1200, which I thought was expensive.
I can post some pics of the floors tomorrow (maybe), but would welcome advice in the meantime.

cheers

 

[dazlight]

Sounds correct that.
You can use Fball 1200 & F77 dpm

or Ardex NA & DPM1c

 

[kjacko]

Sounds correct that.
You can use Fball 1200 & F77 dpm

or Ardex NA & DPM1c

So, FBall 1200 first, then the F77 dpm?
Then anything on top after that?
I'd be putting electric heating mats down that will need level compound on top I guess prior to using vinyl planking (Karndean, Amtico etc)?

Not only am I wanting to save money, but actually enjoy learning new stuff. I've never levelled a floor myself but a friend is a screeder and can help if necessary. But on this project the screed he works with isn't suitable, so he suggested I sought alterior advice.

 

[kjacko]

here are the pics of the kitchen with multiple substrates to go over and the reception room that it flowed into (not having a door) with approx 20mm thick tiles and areas of solid painted concrete.
Note there is salt coming through in some areas (under the desk mainly) but the previous guy who quoted said that wasn’t an issue.

 

[dazlight]

To be honest mate I wouldn’t risk doing it.
That needs a dig up and new sub floor
Maybe get a Ashpalt base at 20mm

buy if you go down the screeding compound way then I’d use ardex over Fball.

So grind off / scrape anything loose
Clean clean and clean with de greaser so no contamination
Then a coat of ardex NA to get the basic levels and smooth
Then ardex DPM1c
Prime with ardex P4
Fit UFH matting
2 coats of ardex NA needed then at approx 4-5mm each coat
Then LVT flooring. I always recommend moduleo or quickstep Livyn dryback.

 

[kjacko]

To be honest mate I wouldn’t risk doing it.
That needs a dig up and new sub floor
Maybe get a Ashpalt base at 20mm

buy if you go down the screeding compound way then I’d use ardex over Fball.

So grind off / scrape anything loose
Clean clean and clean with de greaser so no contamination
Then a coat of ardex NA to get the basic levels and smooth
Then ardex DPM1c
Prime with ardex P4
Fit UFH matting
2 coats of ardex NA needed then at approx 4-5mm each coat
Then LVT flooring. I always recommend moduleo or quickstep Livyn dryback.

seriously?! There’s no chance that digging up the floor is happening. From everything I’ve read today the fball and Ardex stuff are designed for situations like mine. There’s no damp in the floor.
Why would I need a primer after the dpm and before the ardex na?

 

[crazydaze]

seriously?! There’s no chance that digging up the floor is happening. From everything I’ve read today the fball and Ardex stuff are designed for situations like mine. There’s no damp in the floor.
Why would I need a primer after the dpm and before the ardex na?

Because any contamination or bond failure will result in a massive inconvenience and expensive to rectify mess.

Has the floor been checked for moisture with a hydrometer box?

 

[kjacko]

Because any contamination or bond failure will result in a massive inconvenience and expensive to rectify mess.

Has the floor been checked for moisture with a hydrometer box?

No, but again (excuse my niaivety) isn’t that was the 1200 pro is for, to apply to damp floors? According to the wording on fballs website it is.

Stopgap 1200 Pro. ... Stopgap 1200 is suitable for application over damp, clean, uneven concrete and sand/cement screeds, prior to application of Stopgap waterproof surface membranes or Stopgap Isolator Membrane.

 

[dazlight]

Yes it can go over a damp floor. If it’s solid. But the tiles might come loose in the future.
You can’t put a smoothing compound over any contamination so make sure it’s clean.

 

[kjacko]

Yes it can go over a damp floor. If it’s solid. But the tiles might come loose in the future.
You can’t put a smoothing compound over any contamination so make sure it’s clean.

Thanks for confirming. The only tiles left are small remnants that just won’t budge, so I’d imagine they’ll never come loose.
I’ll brush, mop and vacuum the floor prior to applying either the stopgap 1200 pro or Ardex NA. Those 2 seem to be the most popular choice for my project.