Self levelling screed for the novice

[Colin Green]

We're knocking through the kitchen and dining room in our new house and extending the kitchen to the side. The extension will have a solid floor, the kitchen has quarry tiles and the dining room is a suspended floor which will have new boards laid. I don't like the idea of 3 different sub surfaces, expecially as we want to lay Amtico or Kearndene or similar. So I'm thinking of lifting the tiles and putting a self levelling screed over the old and new kitchens.

I've asked the builder to quote for the extra work but expect to need a stiff drink before opening the quote. (they wanted an extra £3600 to lift the suspended floors, install insulation and fit new chipboard flooring. I've sourced the materials for £600 and will do the work myself).
So I'm considering telling them to lay the extension floor a centimetre lower than I want, then lifting the tiles myself and putting down a self levelling screed. All my DIY experience is with timber or in building cars. I'm a total screed virgin.

Does self levelling screed actually level itself from a single pour or do you still have to push it around and screed it a bit yourself?

Is is an easy enough job to get a good finish the first time if you're a novice? I want the finished floor to be level and at 1 level.

 

[geraldthehamster]

Generally, you have to persuade it to go where you want it. This post would be better in the Floors, Stairs and Lofts Forum, where you will also find this sticky:

//www.diynot.com/diy/threads/how-to-use-self-levelling-compound-for-concrete.80333/

Cheers
Richard

 

[Colin Green]

Thanks for the pointer, I'll have a read. Sorry, I didn't see the floors forum.

 

[dazlight]

Can you post some pics mate.
Quarry tikes if old won't have a DPM under them. This needs sorting out with a liquid DPM or the karmdean ( LVT ) won't be down long.

 

[Colin Green]

The tiles are probably original from 1935. I'll make sure there's a liquid dpm put down, thanks.

The tiles are about 10mm lower than the timber floor in the dining room. Is there any reason to lift them or should I leave them and screed over?

 

[dazlight]

If Solid then go over them.
You can put epoxy DPM straight to them. De grease them 1st though to make sure there is no contamination on them.
Are you going to plywood the wood section.

 

[Colin Green]

If Solid then go over them.
You can put epoxy DPM straight to them. De grease them 1st though to make sure there is no contamination on them.
Are you going to plywood the wood section.

I'll clean them up and go over then. We're going to use chipboard flooring for the rest.

 

[dazlight]

So you are going to put the chipboard onto the joists ?
Then screed onto the chipboard ?

 

[Colin Green]

So you are going to put the chipboard onto the joists ?
Then screed onto the chipboard ?

I am going to put the chipboard onto the joists. I don't know yet whether I should screed over the chipboard or screed up to it. I believe latex screed can be laid over timber.

 

[dazlight]

Depends on what chipboard you use. I always play it before screed. Can you not use 18mm ply then screed over that

 

[Colin Green]

I guess so.

 

[dazlight]

Stronger base that.

 

[crazydaze]

dazlight is bang on here, one thing to note is that your final screeding prep needs to be perfect, and by perfect that means PERFECT or every little rise, lump and bump will show through the finished Karndean.

Don't ask a builder for a quote, get a reputable floor layer in to quote the price, a) it will be more realistic price wise and b) it will be installed to the correct standard suitable for a correct finish.