A little help with a shopping list....

[Yorkshirebloke]

Yes just stick with the single 3-port, everything else is dealt with via EvoHome. The cylinder sensor would be in addition to the hot water kit.

You'll also want a Spirovent from Richard, and a filling loop with built in pressure gauge.

On the pressure testing front, Oldbuffer is correct - air contains a lot of energy and a fitting blowing off could travel a long way. 4 bar is five times the pressure (and therefore energy) generated by an air rifle, to give you some perspective.

Honeywell Valencia valve packs are a perfect match for EvoHome

Brilliant, thanks so much. I'll add those to the list.
So did some reading on the spirovent, is it much different to a normal air vent? At £90 compared to £10 for a Honeywell bottle one it's a bit pricey lol.

In terms of the air pressure..... I've been using and fitting compressed air for years so I'll take all precautions necessary when doing it.
Besides, all the fittings will be spot on and there won't be any leaks......... if only!

Only thing now is fittings.....
I'll need a swept tee to go onto the water return for the secondary return, I'll need a non return valve just there as well.
How many other ball valves or check valves can you see me needing? Is it worth putting an isolation valve on each leg of each radiator or is that unecceary?

Alex

 

[John D v2.0]

4 bar is five times the pressure (and therefore energy) generated by an air rifle

In fact it's way worse than that. The energy is proportional to both the pressure and the volume. The volume of a rad system is way above an air rifle.
Once i had a bicycle tyre blow off a rim i didn't spot was damaged just after i pumped it up to 80psi. My ears were ringing for a good while even from that tiny volume.
OP, use water unless you like unnecessary risks, it'll cost you less than 2p, and chances are you'll get a couple of bar minimum straight from the mains.

 

[muggles]

Brilliant, thanks so much. I'll add those to the list.
So did some reading on the spirovent, is it much different to a normal air vent? At £90 compared to £10 for a Honeywell bottle one it's a bit pricey lol.

In terms of the air pressure..... I've been using and fitting compressed air for years so I'll take all precautions necessary when doing it.
Besides, all the fittings will be spot on and there won't be any leaks......... if only!

Only thing now is fittings.....
I'll need a swept tee to go onto the water return for the secondary return, I'll need a non return valve just there as well.
How many other ball valves or check valves can you see me needing? Is it worth putting an isolation valve on each leg of each radiator or is that unecceary?

Alex

Yes the Spirovent is a completely different beast, definitely worth the extra money.

You don't need a swept tee for your secondary return. You do need a check valve though, and I like to put an isolation valve between the check and the cylinder to make it easier to maintain when it stops working

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

Yes the Spirovent is a completely different beast, definitely worth the extra money.

You don't need a swept tee for your secondary return. You do need a check valve though, and I like to put an isolation valve between the check and the cylinder to make it easier to maintain when it stops working

Okie doke, I am happy to buy good kit, nowt worse than buying tat that won't last. I'll add the spirovent to the list.
Can this be added onto a spur off the main run of 22 and taken into the loft? Would make getting to it a lot easier.

The only reason I said to go for the swept tee was Dilalio suggested it in another thread. So not worth it?

Will I want isolation valves anywhere else? Drain points?

Thank you so much for the help everyone, can't tell you how much it means
Alex

 

[muggles]

The Spirovent should be placed on the main flow from the boiler - it's a flow-through design rather than something you connect with one branch of a tee.

The Joule cylinders have a dedicated secondary return tapping so a swept tee into the cold feed isn't required

Drain off valves at the lowest point are always a good idea, even better if you can put them outside. You'll need an isolation valve on the cylinder cold feed, and might wish to have one on the hot outlet as well.

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

Ah i see, so can basically go within a few feet of the boiler. Gotcha.

I'll buy the ball valve types I think, the handle always seems a better idea than the screw driver isolation jobs.
I think I'll put a drain point next to the tank in the garage as it will be the lowest point in the whole system and can be really easily drained into the garden. No worries about a few drips etc then either.

Have you any idea what these gauges either side of the pressure reducing valve are for? God knows where to get the pipe to connect em from??

 

[copea]

I think you're talking at cross-purposes.
The Spirovent is a vent, but muggles means a 'Spirotech Spirotrap MB3' magnetic system filter/dirt separator (I think).

 

[Gasguru]

Spirovvent type air separators have a gauze inside designed to allow the micro air bubbles in the water to coalesce to a sufficient size to be released from the water...normal cheap air vents are pretty ineffective at that.
Often there's a blanked 1/4 inch tapping on the pressure reducing valve to plumb in a gauge (reading the downstream pressure). I just plumb in a tee each side of the PRV coming off in 15mm then use a 15mm to 1/2 female coupling with a 1/2 to 1/4 reducing bush to suit the gauge thread. The gauges enable you to monitor the street pressure, the pressure drop from street to PRV inlet, the outlet pressure etc. When you're fault finding it just makes the job quicker and easier.

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

I think you're talking at cross-purposes.
The Spirovent is a vent, but muggles means a 'Spirotech Spirotrap MB3' magnetic system filter/dirt separator (I think).

Funny you should say that, I opened another thread asking what people thought of the MB3 lol.
It's either run a RV2 deaerator and a magnaclean 2, or run an Rv2 and an MB3.

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

Spirovvent type air separators have a gauze inside designed to allow the micro air bubbles in the water to coalesce to a sufficient size to be released from the water...normal cheap air vents are pretty ineffective at that.
Often there's a blanked 1/4 inch tapping on the pressure reducing valve to plumb in a gauge (reading the downstream pressure). I just plumb in a tee each side of the PRV coming off in 15mm then use a 15mm to 1/2 female coupling with a 1/2 to 1/4 reducing bush to suit the gauge thread. The gauges enable you to monitor the street pressure, the pressure drop from street to PRV inlet, the outlet pressure etc. When you're fault finding it just makes the job quicker and easier.

Haha got ya! Literally just been looking at the fittings and the gauges. Not an expensive addition really, 2 gauges, 2 tees and the 2 compression to 1/4bsp adapters is about £30, and I can now see why you were doing it, basically to determine what's going in and out of the pressure reducing valve.
I'll add these to the list!!

 

[muggles]

I think you're talking at cross-purposes.
The Spirovent is a vent, but muggles means a 'Spirotech Spirotrap MB3' magnetic system filter/dirt separator (I think).

No I don't, I mean a Spirovent RV2

 

[Ethel H]

I believe Spirotech was planning to launch a successor to the Spirotrap MB3, called the Variofilter (or MB4). Its design appears to compete with the Fernox TF1 Omega in that it also has a metal body and a long internal magnet so magnetite collection would be superior (I would like to see more detail on how well non-magnetite is collected too).

Spirotech say the Variofilter will surpass the MB3 in terms of 'performance, functionality and reliability'. However there is no sign of it launching at all.

https://www.spirotech.com/pgx/_medi...spirotech-ish-pressrelease-variofilter-en.pdf

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

Haha, it might be another intergas xtreme......
It's imminent...... in 2-3 years

 

[muggles]

Haha, it might be another intergas xtreme......
It's imminent...... in 2-3 years

I popped over to the factory in Holland for a visit last week and it seems that the XTreme really is coming late Q3/early Q4 this year, with the HRX following on in Q1 of 2019. They're essentially ready to go (subject to field trials), but the current factory doesn't have sufficient capacity to produce them so they'll enter production once the new factory is completed in July/August

 

[bernardgreen]

once the new factory is completed in July/August

Is this the new factory that Boltjes are talking about ?