About to tackle installing my own kitchen. Advice needed

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Hi Folks.

One of my first post on here so be gentle :cool:

I like to see myself as a competent DIYer so I'm going to tackle fitting my own kitchen (that plus the fact that I don't have the cash to pay for a fitter :( ).

First off, what tools would you guys recommend I use/need to complete the task. I have most of the basics, drill, spirit level etc but will I need anything more specific? I was thinking about purchasing a 6'/2M spirit level as I'm thinking this would be better for ensuring the units are all at the same level.

Were going to be having an extractor fan and obviously need to drill a hole for the exhaust. I don't have a core drill but have read on here and other forum's that you can use stitch drilling instead. What's the best option?

Any other advice you guys can pass would also be useful and be very gratefully received.

Cheers folks, Crofty
 
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You could probably hire the more specialised tools you'll need. Router and worktop jig / Core drill and core bit, possibly circular saw and jigsaw.
When you take the old kitchen out, mark a datum line on the walls where your units are going , usually 870 mm up from the floor. Check that the floor is level, by measuring down from the datum line at various points . If any measurement is smaller than the 870mm, then re-mark the datum line from the highest point of the floor (wherever the measurement is the smallest)
Make your units up as per MI's but don't fit the doors/drawers yet. Start fitting the base units from a corner, adjusting the legs until the first unit is level and plumb (can take a bit of doing) Fix this one to the wall. Place the next unit in place and level up as before. Once it is level and plumb with the first unit, drill and screw this unit to the first. (I usually clamp them together whilst drilling and screwing them together) Carry on down the row of units in manner, checking that they are plumb and level.
Wall units are done in a similar fashion (depending upon the type of wall fixings they have) Where you have the extractor going, check the MI's of the hob, for minimum clearances from hob to wall units. I usually mark the middle of the hob on the wall and plumb a line up then measure out each way to set the positions of wall units. Fit wall units once your happy about where they're going (screwing and drilling them to each other like the base units) You might want to consider drilling the hole for the extractor before moving on to the worktops. Follow the MI's as to height of extractor etc. Protect the units directly below and either side of where your drilling the hole.
Cut the worktops to length etc and router any corner joints (as per instructions that should come with the jig). Mark where cutouts for sink/ hob etc are going (following MI's instructions. Cut these out. You may need someone to help you lift the worktop back on to the base units when the cutouts have been done, as these can seriously weaken the worktop. Seal the edges with varnish before fitting sink and hob. You might have to cut out some bits of the base units where the sink and hob are going so with the worktop back in position, mark and cut any bits that have to come off the base units before fitting the sink to the worktop and lifting the worktop back on.
If there are any corner joints that you have routered, bolt these up once the worktop is in position using worktop connector bolts and colorfill or silicon on the faces of the joint (Warning, with colorfill, you have to work very fast to bolt the worktops together before the colorfill goes off. ensuring the worktops are level with each other)
Once you've done all this, connect the water to the sink and the waste etc to it and check for slight leaks. If everything is fine, fill the kettle up and have a cuppa before tackling anything else.
Protect the worktop now with the flattened boxes the base and wall units came in. Fit the hob (if it's a gas hob, you'll need a gassafe registered installer to connect it up)

Finally, fit the doors/drawers. drill and fit handles/knobs. fit plinths etc ( and a point for the wife's chain) ;) ;)
Admire your handiwork and expect praise from er indoors (until she points out the obvious bits).
This guide is not exhaustive in any way or form, as individual circumstances / conditions vary. No responsibility is accepted, should you get it completely wrong and the wife isn't completely satisfied. ;) ;) ;)
 
I reckon joinerjohn as just about summed it up good en proper. If I was going to buy anything though it would definitely be a laser level, can be a little pricey but worth every penny
 
And don't forget to plan out the kitchen carefully and think about power to appliances etc, sockets above or below worktop and where the plumbing with run.Worth asking here before you buy tool or start a job, if you go with timber worktops for instance you don't need the router .
Also purchase any new appliance and read installation instruction, nothing worse than planning a kitchen and finding an appliance need an extra 20mm clearance here or there.
The quick action hand clamps are a must, you can set up the units and spot any alignment problems before you start screwing to the wall.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-quick-grip-6-mini-one-handed-bar-clamp/29139
 
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Crofty, I'm assuming that on your longest run of units, the walls are actually plumb and straight along their length (if only) There's a lot to learn about fitting kitchen units. Last kitchen I fitted, the wall was bent like a dogs back leg (well probably about 20mm external curve on it over 5.5m) but enough to throw units out. I had to scribe the backs of the base units to allow the middle ones to go back so the front faces were flush with each other (similarly with the wall units above. There was plumbing pipework to consider too as well as hidden electrics in the walls.
As Foxhole says, the best time to sort everything out is at the planning stage. If there's built under appliances, your going to need electrics/plumbing going to these. Perhaps your having a built in dishwasher? There's electrics , plumbing and waste to consider.
Have fun,, and don't be afraid to ask for help. Even something which to us seems fairly simple, might stump you. Best of luck. ;) ;)
 
joinerjohn has hit the nail on the head as it wer, but ad defo recomend a jigsaw!
 
Cheers folks and esp joinerjohn for the massive reply (going to have to read that a few times to digest it all).

I don't know if it makes a difference but the kitchen is from IKEA (I already know about the lack of a void space for pipes) and I've obviously designed it myself and had all the measurements double checked. When the old kitchen came out all the units seemed to be un-touched so I'm presuming the walls are all plumb.

All the gas & electrics are now in place in the correct spots and the walls have been re-skimmed.

I've got two of those exact clamps on order already :D and a 2M spirit level (already got a jigsaw)
 
Ahh, the infamous Ikea Kitchens. Plumbing is best run either along the wall at a height of no more than 145 mm, then bring the pipework forward and up through the bottom of the unit,,, or ideally,, come straight out of the wall directly where the sink will be, Swings and roundabouts really, I'm not too keen on plumbing buried in walls.. Sink waste hole (through the wall to outside) should be cored drilled , after the base units are in place (ideally putting the sink in with waste connected up so you get the height just right, then take the sink out again, to allow clearance for drilling).
Nice solid units though from Ikea. Make up well, just the lack of a service void, that needs extra consideration, but nothing we can't get over.

One way to get over the lack of the service void is to fit a batten to the wall, just below worktop height and build the base units off that,, but you have to buy wider worktop, which will cost quite a lot more. Also infilling at the end of a run of units can be a bit of a pain.

Last Ikea kitchen I fitted had a solid beech worktop. I could just about lift it on my own, so marked out for the inset sink, (thinking it would make the worktop just that bit lighter). When I'd fitted the composite sink to the worktop it weighed even more :eek: :eek: :eek: and I had to phone someone to come and help me lift the worktop into position. :LOL: :LOL: ;) ;) ;)
 
I've been marking on the wall for where the extractor hood is going to go and may have run into an issue.

I have 33cm's of room for the chimney but the installation guide says you should have a minimum of 57cm for the chimney.

Is this a minimum regulated requirement or will i get away with 33cm's and just cut the chimney to size?

Cheers, Crofty
 
Depends how it is to used, may require the length in recirculation mode but if vented outside should not matter so long as you have room for the vent pipe.
If cutting down trim the lower half of top section where it sits inside lower section with tin snips, that way cut will not be visible.Though your space is very tight so you may only have room for one section.
 
Measure the amount of space you have above the cooker hood (when it's fixed to the wall) then just cut the chimney down to the required size. If it's stainless steel, you'll need a jigsaw blade suitable for s/s and probably some method of supporting the chimney whilst you cut it. Alternatively, mark the length you need and take it to a local sheet metal fabricators and ask if they could cut it for you (might only cost you the price of a pint) ;) ;)
 
Delivery day tomorrow eek. I'm having a gas hob and want to have the extractor hood vent to the outside. My only issue is the hood instructions say it should be mounted 750mm above the hob but I only have 735mm. Would it be illegal/against regulations/dangerous to install it at this height or will I be OK? Would the hood still work efficiently?

Cheers once again for the help.

Crofty
 
How do you only have 735mm above the hob ?? Extremely low ceiling????
 
What's the socket for?? You can always move it . Anyway, it would be an idea to try and trace where the cables to it are coming from, so you can avoid drilling into these. ;)

Edit,, In fact, you should move it. If it's above the hob, it's going to be useless where it is. ;)
 

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