Accenta alarm no power to keypad

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Stop being abusive Daisy. If you think any of that is wrong - then say so. :rolleyes:
 
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Hello Lee,

If the Moderators refuse to remove Joe 90's last three posts, I can only suggest that it says a lot about this forum and it is time for me to leave it to the amatuers and move on.

He is totally wrong in suggesting that you move in that direction at this point in time,

I have barely written the words "one step at a time" ... I give up..honestly.
 
Don't be ridiculous. I've been doing this for over 25 years. That is how you proceed. That is how a pro would do it. No waffle. Just clear instructions.


So which part is wrong then?
 
There is no point going one step at a time over weeks. It either works when you reboot it or it doesn't. Let's find out eh? Reboot it.

When your computer crashes what do you do? Yes. Reboot it. No messing around.
 
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There is no point going one step at a time over weeks. It either works when you reboot it or it doesn't. Let's find out eh? Reboot it.

When your computer crashes what do you do? Yes. Reboot it. No messing around.
Joe, you know very well that the writing of a tome requires many chapters and volumes.

Anyway, considering daisy keeps remind everyone, this is a forum for all all to contribute. But seemingly not when he hijacks a thread.
 
That's fair comment Lee, I've just read your first post again. Walk in front of your passive infra red detectors mounted in each room and tell me if a light comes on on the unit when you walk in front of it.
.... and that WILL NOT tell you if your battery is faulty.

Flower, if you do not know how alarm systems/batts. etc work/how to be tested, I strongly suggest you go to one of the available training courses that are available.

Stop giving incorrect advise to people here, it does nothing to endear you to professional engineers that have been in the business for 10, 20, 30 or even 40yrs+

If you have been in this trade for more than 5mins you should be aware of the intricacies associated with alarm system batteries.

In other words how they work, how to test them correctly and more importantly how to listen to what the customer says, that is one of the biggest clues to a battery problem, not learned that yet?
 
I still don't understand why Daisy is going on about testing the keypad fuse when the pictures posted clearly show the LEDs illuminated. If the fuse has blown - where is the power to light the LEDs coming from?

And no matter how much talk he goes through - sooner or later you have to reboot the panel - why waste time and money when it's a 2 minute job?
 
Hi Joe,

Please can yopu elaborate on the below:

Lee. Let me tell you what to do.

Pull the fuse carrier out of the spur. - What does this mean? which fuse carrier & which spur? Are you talking about the main power in the house or in the panel?

Open the panel. - Wont this set the alarm off?

Disconnect battery. - Which battery? Ive not seen inside the panel, is there only one? Is this what they say needs replacing?

Count to ten.

Reconnect battery.

Enter code number

If it doesn't come back on then push in fuse tray. The one I took out before? Doesnt one of the fuses need replacing?

If it still doesn't work you need a new panel.

If external alarm sounds disonnect the switched neg and the speaker. - Wheres this in the panel? Is it all labelled?

Get ladders up and remove battery from siren unit. - Not an option!

Remove mains power and battery again.

Panel now dead.

Buy new panel.

Get back to me and I'll tell you what to do.

No need to make a drama out of it.
 
Lee. All you are trying to do is disconnect all power from the panel then reconnecting it again. Just like you do when your PC crashes.

The panel should be connected by a fused connection unit somewhere very close to the panel. It has a little tray that slides out with a three amp fuse in it and removes the power.

Opening the panel will activate the tamper circuit and the internal alarm will sound - the outside one shouldn't.

Once inside you remove the battery leads and the external alarm will sound (the internal speaker will stop).

When you reconnect the leads the alarm will sound inside and out. Entering your code should stop it and all should return to normal.

Then put the lid back on and push the little fuse tray in again.

The other instructions are for what to do in case it is knackered.

If it doesn't accept your user code then it may have reverted back to the factory code of 1234..

Either way - you are going to have to set it off to fix it.

Just had a look at your photo - that is the spur just above it.
 
Be very careful Lee, he's on the verge of blowing your panel for you.
 
Don't be silly Daisy. Do it every week somewhere. If you can't help - then clear off. You have a serious psychological problem.
 
Why didn't you answer the question on the third post then, when you had the chance, or have you just looked up the answer again ?
 
"....If you can't help - then clear off...."

You can help though because you've installed a 1000 alarms in 25 years. Is that correct ?
 
But joe said in an earlier post that the keypad was knackered ?
 

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