Advice for a noob please

[xAlex]

Guys, I just finished installing a shower using 10mm cable. There were 2 jobs I hated: (1) somehow getting the 10mm conductors into the back box so I could fit the pull-switch, and (2) Nailing the metal capping over the cable using 'masonry' nails. 75% of the nails bent and I hit my fingers several times trying to hold the nail in place on the bouncy metal. Any tips from you Pro's out there would be greatly apriciated for next time. Cheers, Alex.

 

[ricicle]

Try and 'dress' the conductors so they are in the right place with regards to the terminal positions and sometimes, if there is room, it pays to make the conductors slightly longer so you can manipulate the cables and switch more easlily when bringing together the switch and patress/box.

As for nailing the capping, it is sometimes easier to use cable clips to fix sheathing to a wall.The nails do not have to go through the capping, they can just go down the side as long as the nail head holds the sheathing in place.

 

[Lectrician]

Use crabtree or marbo 50amp shower pulls - they are completely different from a pattress and pull cord - 99% easier to install.

As for capping - it's all practice. BUT - where was the capping used? I hope in a 'safe' zone?

 

[RF Lighting]

Try working with 250mm² SWA cable, then 10mm² will seem sooooo easy to work with

 

[ricicle]

Try working with 250mm² SWA cable, then 10mm² will seem sooooo easy to work with

No such size (Try 240 mm²)

Try working with 600mm²

 

[plugwash]

I presume you don't even try to terminate those huge sizes in a terminate then squash style enclousure.

 

[Adam_151]

I presume you don't even try to terminate those huge sizes in a terminate then squash style enclousure.

I can't imagine that they do!

On a similar note, thats where the crabtree pull isolators recommended by Lec have the advantage if I'm thinking of the right ones, you fix it and wire to it and then fit a cover over it, rather than wire a plate and squash it back

 

[Lectrician]

Crabtree is identical to Marbo. They are great - fix base to ceiling, wire it, then slip on the cover! Don't fix it *too* close to the wall though - difficult to tighten the terminals otherwise. These are specced by the council down our way.


As for huge cables. Cables around 185 can be tweaked and bent as they are laid into the terminals, as for 400 and the like, they are tweakable to a degree, but are basically cut to length and laid back onto terminals. Not even the DNO use 4 core cables above 240mm anymore - they use singles, or three core alu-armour used as a single core.

 

[ricicle]

Not even the DNO use 4 core cables above 240mm anymore - they use singles, or three core alu-armour used as a single core.

Yeah, even the HV cables are singles now.I've seen them round our estate and on some HV work round our factory.

 

[RF Lighting]

Yup singles used for HV distribution.

 

[ColJack]

fixing capping.. I do it 1 of 3ways depending on the situation..

1. pre drill holes for the nails in the capping.. makes it much easier.. try to get the holes loned up in a mortar course..

2. drill and rawl plug with screws next to the capping, and use washers under the screw heads.. ( usefull when capping onto hard blocks or concrete walls )

3. as a last resort.. use gripfill and duct tape ( to hold it in place while the gripfill goes off... )

on big sites, they use hilti nail guns...

there seems to be a hole in the market for fixing capping....

come kind of clip that nails into pre drilled holes..

of self adhesive capping...

I've even though of submitting a proposal to a brick maker for more sparky and plasterer friendly bricks.. made with 15mm deep slices every 10mm along one face.. easy to break out for cable chases and back boxes and would provide a good key for plaster..

If I ever build my own house from the gound up I have many ideas to make it more service friendly..