ADVICE - How to fit glue on type worktop ends ?
- Thread starter bilabonic
- Start date
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D
Deleted member 174758
This ideally needs to be done before the worktop is fixed in position as it then necomes a much trickier operation.
You need a good contact adhesive such as Evostik 528 although the Evostik red (solvent based) will also do. Using a Stanley knife with a sharp blade cut a length of edging slightly longer than you need (10mm or so). I'd recommend using the kitchen chopping board to do this. Tape the edging down using masking tape or the like to stop it moving and use a steel ruler or the edge of your spirit level to gude the blade. Coat the back of the laminate edging with a thin layer of contact adhesive (enough to wet it - it will go darker) and do the same with the cut edge at the end of the worktop. As this is chipboard it will soak up.the glue so I'd recommend a second coating after 5 or so minutes. Allow both pieces to dry for 15 to 20 minutes until.touch dry all over. Now comes the tricky bit: offer up the edging to the worktop so that the glued face is sitting only 2 to 3mm onto the top (laminated) surface of the worktop making sure that both ends overhang by 5mm or so front and rear and hinge it gently down so that the two glued surfaces touch. Smooth down with the shaft if a large (clean) screwdriver. This will cause the contact adhesive to take. If you are unsure about doing this I'd recommend doing a few dry runs without any glue on the parts because once contact adhesive grabs you cannot reposition the pieces.
To trim the resulting overhangs a sharpened plane iron can be run along the edges with the back of the blade held flat against the surfaces and the edge of the blade angled to the edge at 30 to 50 degrees. Final finishing (including the radiused cornwrs at the front) is done with a fine file held at 30 degrees to horizontal and single gentle strokes are made forwards into the laminate - lift off at the end of the stroke and do not pull back - the strokes should also have some sideways motion. As a guide I cover the 600mm of a worktop edge in 4th 5 strokes, no more. Watch how deeply you cut - as you reach the top of the worktop laminate you will see the squeezed out contact adhesive pill and come away - that is when to stop.
You need a good contact adhesive such as Evostik 528 although the Evostik red (solvent based) will also do. Using a Stanley knife with a sharp blade cut a length of edging slightly longer than you need (10mm or so). I'd recommend using the kitchen chopping board to do this. Tape the edging down using masking tape or the like to stop it moving and use a steel ruler or the edge of your spirit level to gude the blade. Coat the back of the laminate edging with a thin layer of contact adhesive (enough to wet it - it will go darker) and do the same with the cut edge at the end of the worktop. As this is chipboard it will soak up.the glue so I'd recommend a second coating after 5 or so minutes. Allow both pieces to dry for 15 to 20 minutes until.touch dry all over. Now comes the tricky bit: offer up the edging to the worktop so that the glued face is sitting only 2 to 3mm onto the top (laminated) surface of the worktop making sure that both ends overhang by 5mm or so front and rear and hinge it gently down so that the two glued surfaces touch. Smooth down with the shaft if a large (clean) screwdriver. This will cause the contact adhesive to take. If you are unsure about doing this I'd recommend doing a few dry runs without any glue on the parts because once contact adhesive grabs you cannot reposition the pieces.
To trim the resulting overhangs a sharpened plane iron can be run along the edges with the back of the blade held flat against the surfaces and the edge of the blade angled to the edge at 30 to 50 degrees. Final finishing (including the radiused cornwrs at the front) is done with a fine file held at 30 degrees to horizontal and single gentle strokes are made forwards into the laminate - lift off at the end of the stroke and do not pull back - the strokes should also have some sideways motion. As a guide I cover the 600mm of a worktop edge in 4th 5 strokes, no more. Watch how deeply you cut - as you reach the top of the worktop laminate you will see the squeezed out contact adhesive pill and come away - that is when to stop.
D
Doggit
Instead of 528, you could use evostick timebond. This'll give you a little bit of time to make adjustments before it sets hard. You can tape it over with duct tape to keep it in place, but it's not supposed to be necessary.
I use a scalpel to trim, thinner than a knife and easier to control.
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D
Deleted member 174758
You need to have a slight overhang at top, bottom and front/rear. The laminate edging is generally supplied 15 or 20 mm over width. It's the overhang you need to trim back with a blade. The file is used to take the sharp edge off the laminate as square cut laminate can slice you open much worse than a papercut. Trying to lay laminate bang on with contact adhesive is courting failure IMHO.
D
Doggit
I always manage to set the laminate to the top edge, then take a sharp knife to the underside of the worktop and score the overhang, then having snapped it off, I use the file in the manner you suggest, and give an angled edge to the top and bottom. To my shame, it's never occurred to me to set the laminate in the centre of the edge, and then trim the top and bottom off.
You never cease to live and learn.
You never cease to live and learn.
D
Deleted member 174758
Maybe you can do it now, but could you have done it as an inexperienced apprentice? There are a lot of things I can do now because of experience which a beginner couldn't hope to do well (or in a few cases at all). I'm sure you are in a similar position.......
D
Doggit
I did it like that from the start simply because I didn't realise there was any other way. I thought out the method, and it worked. I was quite proud of myself doing it, till I realised there was a better way, so thanks for that Job.
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