Advice on brushes and rollers

[jesteh]

I am planning to spend next few weeks painting - skirtings, architraves, walls, ceilings etc. Its all new plaster and new wood. I haven't really done much painting in the past and usually just used cheap paint/tools from DIY places. As I have lot to do, I wanted to get good brushes and rollers and was hoping for some advice on this.

I was planning to use Dulux trade paints for everything. No reason other than I like Dulux and there is Decorator Centre nearby.

For wood - Quick Drying Wood Primer/undercoat & diamond satinwood. Reason I am going with water based is I didn't want to risk yellowing.

For walls - supermatt (3 for 2 worked out quite cheap at B&Qs) as mist coat and then some plain vinyl matt on top..

I am reasonably happy with choice of paint. I've read that water based (Diamond Satin) for wood dries quickly so was going to try and practice first.

Onto the brushes etc. What I was going to get here is:
1) a set of Purdy Monarch Elite brushes, although shop advised me to get Hamilton Perfection instead as they give a better finish but not last as long. Not sure about that one - also would 1, 1.5 and 2" brush be ample for amateur?
2) Wooster 4" Jumbo Koters. I was told to get this both for cutting in on the walls and for doing skirtings etc. They look quite handy.
3) 9" Wooster Pro-dooz rollers. Wasn't sure whether to get this or Purdy Dove. Shop here told me to get Avalon rollers instead but I am not sure about that. Also would 3/8" nap be ok for new plastered walls?
4) Short telescopic arm for roller. Just to make it easy on my arms .
4) Plain old plastic tray or 3. I did look at all sort of fancy buckets/'scuttles' etc but they look like they just hold more paint to trip over and spill.
5) Lots of masking tape

I am not planning to be quick but I am hoping to get a good finish. Does this sound like a reasonable setup? Any tips are very welcome.

 

[dcdec]

Looks like your well on the right path.

Do two coats of primer undercoat and don't forget to seal the knots with knotting solution first.
Rubbish advice using hamilton perfections for water based paints, use a synthetic purdy. Sizes are up two you really as its what your comfortable with, i generally use 3" for cutting in emulsions and 1 - 1/2 or two for the woodwork.
Pro dooz sleeves are excellent and i use them all the time. Supermatt for mist coat is bang on and dulux trade emulsions are still good although getting a bit pricey. I havn't used dulux diamond satin wood as sikkens BL satura is the best and wont use anything else at the moment. Quick tip is to dampen your brush before you start with acryllic paints on trim.

I think you'll be fine, good luck!

 

[joe-90]

Technique and understanding the medium (flow characteristics) are far more important that the tools. If you don't understand those you'll make a mess regardless of your fancy brushes.

 

[jesteh]

Thanks for the reply dcdec.
joe-90, I understand that technique is more important but hopefully I can learn that as I go and having good tools will cover for lack of skill as I get better.

 

[joe-90]

Learn it before you start or you'll end up with brush marks and sagging paint. Very few people are capable of good results - and that includes most decorators.

 

[jesteh]

joe, I don't know any good (or otherwise) decorators. Reaching for yellow pages never ends well. So I am doing it myself, as I know I'll be prepared to put in the time and effort.

How are you suggesting I learn it though other than doing the job? I will obviously practice first but I can't spend weeks or years perfecting my technique. As always, there must be tips that people who do this all the time know, e.g. water down the paint, use this type of brushes, use this or that type of paint (like dcdec told me about sikkens BL). Thats why I asked the questions.

 

[joe-90]

Thinning to get the flow is the critical tip. Not a lot - just so it slips on smooth without dragging.

 

[dcdec]

Actually i've met a lot of good decorators capable of very good results, but none taken.

The sikkens wont need thinning, the dulux trade emulsion thin by around 5% and the mist coat between 30 -40 % (always debated on here), only one coat is needed and its to satisfy the porousity of the plaster not to give a key for subsequent coats. It is important to rub down gently between coats to de-nib and provide a key for next coating. Also really important to stir paint thoroughly before use and spot prime filler with thinned emulsion on walls and primer on trim

 

[JohnD]

an aside

natural hog bristle brushes, like Hamilton Perfection, give very good results with oil paints; but water softens the bristle and makes it floppy like wet hair, hence a synthetic fibre holds its texture better

Clean your brushes very thoroughly every time. Keep a jar of water so you can plunge them in every time you take a break. Don't be tempted to apply paint thickly; two thin coats are always better than one thick (non-drip paint however can go on quite thick, if you happen to like it...)

Use the brushes on your primer/undercoat before the topcoat, so they will wear in (the tips of the bristles get finer) and any loose bristles will come out before you start topcoating. An old, well-used and well-cared for brush paints better than a new one.

It is preferable to keep a separate set of brushes for white and a set for colours, as any trace of colour will spoil your white.

My personal preference is to use Aluminium Wood Primer. It seals any knots or resinous patches (so you do not need knotting) and gives a very strong bond. Unlike water-based primer it does not raise the grain of wood. It is very hard wearing for outdoor use as well. Keep a separate brush for it.

When you are painting walls, fill them and scrape smooth using a wide metal scraper (it is cleaner and quicker than sanding, except on the tiniest imperfections). When you think they are perfect, give them a mist and a second coat of White Supermatt, and look again. It will highlight any remaining defects. I like to paint the walls white before I start to colour, it gives a nice even surface and allows you to see and correct any imperfections before you put the colour on. White is cheaper as well. Any variations in porosity or colour of the wall will show through at least one coat of paint, so you can deal with that using your white. A pro might not spend the time like this, because his time is money, but it will help you get a finish you will be happy to live with in your own home.

 

[joe-90]

Don't forget JohnDs best tip - wash your brushes (oil paint) in paraffin.

 

[jesteh]

Cheers for all the advice guys. One more question on paint. I went to Dulux Decorator's Centre and Sikkens paint is over £80 for 5L tin. It makes normal trade paint look cheap .
Genuine question - what is it that makes paint worth over double the price of Dulux DIY paint from somewhere like B&Q (3 for 2 atm too!). It obviously does something better or nobody would buy it. Does it last longer, apply easier, harder wearing or whatever? I really don't know the answer so any clarification welcome.