Advice on how to reduce costs without the expense of having boiler replaced!

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Hi

Our combined gas and electric bills are exhorbitant to say we don't particularly heat all the rooms in the house.

We generally pay upwards of £3000 per year.

Now I know at some point it will make sense to change the boiler but I am not in the position financially to do that at the moment.

I have been trying to understand how the boiler works and what kit I have installed.

So far, it is an old Potterton Netaheat MKIIF 16-22. There is a Grundfos Type UPS 15-60 130 above the boiler with a Danfoss HPA2 motorised valve.

I understand that the Danfoss valve controls HW only from what I have read on some threads here. Please correct me if I am reading wrongly.

The boiler is controlled by a Potterton EP6002 Programmer. I replaced this a few years back as the old EP2002 failed. I assume possibly wrongly that it would be a straight swap. Again, if someone can correct me if I am wrong it would be appreciated.

I know this will sound daft but I have no idea if any of the system is working correctly.

The HW seems to control CH and vice versa! So we have it programmed to HW and CH at the same times throughout the day and every day of the week because my logic is if the boiler never appears to fire when I have just CH switched to on on the programmer then if it fires when HW is switched on, it must be wired incorrectly.

I am going to take the cover off this evening and see what wires come from where.

I cannot find a cylinder stat on the HW cylinder. I have read on the forum wiki that they are generally positioned 1/4 to 1/3 up the cylinder. Unless it is fitted to the rear in an entirely inaccessible location we do not have one.

We have to be careful not to get scalded every day because we have had to turn the heating up to generate more heat. Again, this confirms to me that there cannot be a thermostat as I have looked at a few online and they are generally limited to 65 degrees maximum.

I am looking for general advice on how to improve things. I have read posts on here that say the Danfoss HPA2 MV are rubbish and fail easily. I can hear mine whirring sometimes when the system switches off.

I need to go back to basics and hope to improve the system with some general advice from this forum.

Thanks in anticipation.
 
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Pictures would be helpful. Possibly you have gravity hot water so the 2 port valve is to stop the gravity circulation. (That's presuming you are correct in thinking the 2 port valve is on the hot water circuit). First things to do would be to get a cylinder stat installed. Then sort the wiring so you can work the heating and hot water independantly. Getting the system converted to a fully pumped system would be the most efficient solution. But it can sometimes be a lot of work on a gravity system. Converting to a sealed system is often the easiest way to convert gravity to fully pumped
 
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I would guess that the HPA2 is on the heating supply rather than hw.
The theory then would be, hw on, pump & boiler run to heat cylinder in an uncontrolled way, limited only by boiler stat.
Heating & hw on (heating on its own not possible with this arrangement) Pump & boiler run & zone valve opens to allow flow to radiators.
If you replaced the backplate when you changed clock did you re-fit the link from L to 5?
 
sounds like you could have gravity fed hot water, state of the art for 1970 but not terribly efficient, can you turn on your heating on its own, or does the hot water come on with it?
need some pictures please
 
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I would guess that the HPA2 is on the heating supply rather than hw.
The theory then would be, hw on, pump & boiler run to heat cylinder in an uncontrolled way, limited only by boiler stat.
Heating & hw on (heating on its own not possible with this arrangement) Pump & boiler run & zone valve opens to allow flow to radiators.
If you replaced the backplate when you changed clock did you re-fit the link from L to 5?

Thanks to all so far for replying.

I think you could be right guys. I need to double check the instruction manual for the Netaheat online but it does look like the HPA2 could be on the CH.

I didn't replace the backplate as it was compatible. I just changed the interface over.

I need to disconnect and tidy the wiring up as whoever did it originally was not a pro! Neither am I but I am sure I would do a neater job!
 
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Yes. I live in a drafty mansion. It's not that big. Only 1700 sq. ft. But it is Edwardian and drafty and probably too big for me.

I am going to start looking at sealing gaps around windows and the like.

Here's a couple more photos.

Thanks again.

We have 23 windows and 16 radiators!

All but 4 windows are double glazed.
 
Looks like gravity hot water. I think The 2port must be to stop gravity circulation to the upstairs rads. Get some quotes to convert the system to fully pumped
 
You can spend your money on gas or upgrading the controls and insulation, choice is yours:cool:
 
sounds like you could have gravity fed hot water, state of the art for 1970 but not terribly efficient, can you turn on your heating on its own, or does the hot water come on with it?
need some pictures please

This may sound stupid but I am not sure if I can turn them on independently and with he impending cold snap this week I cannot afford to let the fabric cool down!

I don't believe it can be controlled separately despite the programmer having the facility.

I have now uploaded some photos. If there are any specific photos needed, please let me know.
 
Looks like gravity hot water. I think The 2port must be to stop gravity circulation to the upstairs rads. Get some quotes to convert the system to fully pumped

Agree. Conversion to fully pumped will give considerable savings.

I was slightly confused how a pump can stop gravity feeding something above!

Why would be required to convert to fully pumped? A pump on the hot water? I'll take a look at the manual and see if that means anything to me.
 

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