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Advice on laid screed in garage floor

Thanks again for your replies, it's really helpful.

I must admit I'm not sure on the terminology for all these different floor types. Not sure if they used a water mix or latex etc, I just know it's the stopgap 1200 pro.

And yes that's my main argument with them now, I feel as though they have mis sold the final product completely.

Your photos look great and exactly how I expected the laid product to look like in my garage!

I'll post back after speaking to FBall and everyone else on Wednesday...
 
I have just had the same problem with FBall Stopgap 1200...pinholes all over the place, and on 2 sections of kitchen concrete floor laid 25 and 50 years ago. Most importantly, the Stopgap1200 is the first layer of a liquid DPM sandwich,...ie 1200 then F77 then 1200 again, to address rising damp in preparation for luxury vinyl tiles. The contractor is coming back tomorrow to lay the F77, and I am going to have to question him. In the meantime, I contacted FBall who suggest 2 options (1) apply the F77 and see what happens. If pinholes are still evident, keep on layering F77 until pinholes disappear if at all (2) try to fill pinholes with Stopgap 460. He did not fill me with confidence, stating that pinholes were "difficult to deal with" and best avoided from the start!!
 
It will be ok. Just needs to be thicker on the pin holes. It’s because you can’t prime it properly when doing the 1st coat.
 
It wasnt primed at all before the first coat of 1200. And when I say pinholes all over the place I mean thousands of them over the 25m2 floor. Anyway, the contractor assured me the F77 would cover them. BUT, it did not. It looked like every pinhole in the 1200 became even worse after the F77. The contractor said it was fine and was keen to prove it by sweeping a moisture meter over the F77. Needless to say I was not impressed by his attitude, so I pointed out the F77 technical data sheet supplied in his 14kg kit where it says "if not pinhole free, apply a second layer". So, he begrudgingly agreed and went off in a huff. Yesterday he returned and applied the second F77, not easy to apply evenly a glossy black fluid on a glossy black surface! , I also "reminded" him that the TDS required the F77 coat " to be run up the walls up to the DPC" in one continuous sheet.....something he had not done on the first F77 layer. I was amazed when he said he had never done that and "I do floors, not walls". Nonetheless, he begrudgingly complied. This morning the result of F77 #2 was much improved, from thousands of pinholes to a few dozen. He assured me the resulting damp proof layer was "one hundred percent". He applied the top 1200 this morning and the result looks OK, not perfect.
However, he has run the top 1200 onto the bottom 1200 and even the original floor in places.......which means the top 1200 layer is on contact with the "damp" floor bypassing the F77 DPM completely. I despair. But I can easily fix that with a little grinding back.

And before you think this was some rogue tradesmen, or cheap job. No, he owns the flooring specialist company in our town with flashy showroom, and he kept mentioning his 15 years experience and premium service. The bottom line is that the contractor should have tested the absorbency of my subfloor and PRIMED before the first Stopgap 1200 layer. My advice to the trade is do not insult the customer's intelligence especially when TDS are easily downloaded.
 
You can prime with just water which will help minimise pin holes. Or use rapid repair / feather finish before the Dpm.
On the walls if the skirts are off we do 10mm onto the bricks but no higher. Not sure how well the bond would be going over old bricks. But then we put foam strips around the perimeter to stop the screed touching any bricks as well so no moisture migration.
 

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