Advice on painting new stair parts

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I have installed new stair parts inc newels, spindles, hand rails and base rails. These are all made from pine. I would like some advice please on how to achieve the best painted finish with white gloss. Which brands ? Etc
Many thanks
 
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I would go for Leyland acrylic primer/undercoat to begin with. It is cheap but unlike most acrylic paints, it is a dream to sand using 180 grit silicone carbide paper (and Webrax pads for the spindles).

I'd then apply one coat of Dulux Trade oil based undercoat to provide a uniform white base.

Finally two coats of Dulux Trade oil based gloss. Gloss over gloss is fine provided that provided that you apply the second coat within a couple of weeks. If you leave it for over a month or so, you will need to lightly sand before applying the second coat.

To help the gloss paint to flow, I add a little bit of Owatrol oil and a tiny bit of white spirit. To help it cure quicker, add some terebene.

Store oil based brushes in Brushmate 4 over night.

Personally I am not a fan of water based gloss but if your hallway lacks natural light, oil based gloss will yellow. Waterbased paints do not yellow but they are less durable and more difficult to apply to a high standard. They do however dry much faster, smell much ;ess and brushes can be cleaned with water.
 
Thanks oops. A very informative reply. There isn’t much natural light in the hallway but would rather use oil based gloss. When you say oil based gloss tends to yellow without natural light, over what period of time does this happen?
Thanks
 
2010 was the year that manufacturers had to reduce the levels of VOCs.

For the first couple of years the paints yellowed very quickly (often well under a year).

In large hallways that have enough natural light to enable you to walk around without having to put a light on during the day time, I would guess that you will be fine for quite a few years. If the hallway is always dark- maybe two years(?).

I am only going based upon the hallways that I have painted for customers over the years. Far from scientific though so I can't offer any guarantees.

Back in 2010, I recommended that clients use an off white, when it yellows it is less obvious.

As an aside- have you considered oil based eggshell? It is much easier to work with and less likely to highlight every tiny flaw.
 
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Never really considered eggshell as I’ve just always glossed wood.

What are the pros and cons?
Does it give as good a finish as gloss?
 
I would guess that (excluding exterior woodwork) 95% of all of the woodwork that I paint is eggshell. That has been the case for the last 15 years or so.

(IMO) it is more subtle than gloss. If your walls are relatively low sheen, then why not consider sticking with a relatively low sheen woodwork (unless you are making a statement).

Generalising somewhat- standard gloss is has a sheen level of about 85%, satinwood about 55%, eggshell about 30%, matt emulsion 10%.

The lower sheen level helps to "mask" imperfections; be those dust particles, hairs/fibres, joins where stair stringers meet the skirting, etc. Unlike with gloss you can just about get away with touching in small areas if need be. Eggshell doesn't run like gloss paint does. It is touch dry much quicker than gloss.

Like gloss it is scrubable but very, very slightly less so than gloss.
 
So if I go for eggshell, just swap the gloss out for eggshell in your previous instructions?
 
Recently doing the exact project myself soon so thanks for those posts opps, very helpfull.
 
Just a quick question opps. My friend has given me some Dulux water based primer/undercoat. Was thinking of using that as my first coat. Would that be ok?
 
It will be fine. It does clog the sand paper more than the Leyland but one doesn't sand back primer on timber as thoroughly as they would with MDF.
 
Also need some advice on what product to use on new interior engineered oak doors. I was thinking maybe a clear varnish? Any advice appreciated
 

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