Advice on painting new stair parts

[opps]

You can varnish them. Oil based varnish may change the colour of the oak more than waterbased though.

Alternatively, you can can use a wax oil.

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil?sid=1

 

[Nige F]

FWIW a furniture restorer I know never varnishes anything - always uses a wax of some sort. So I'd agree with opps, who's advice on the forum is excellent, usually

 

[nabby68]

Will using the oil darken the doors? Because I want to keep them as light as possible

 

[opps]

Will using the oil darken the doors? Because I want to keep them as light as possible

You might be better off with the following then

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil-raw-3044

(from the blurb)-

• Specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of untreated wood
• Counteracts the darkening (damp wood look) associated with standard clear oils

The supplier will be able to give you more comprehensive advice than me though. Note- it is a matt finish.

 

[nabby68]

Cheers opps for your excellent advice

 

[nabby68]

Hello again opps I’m looking for some advice on the best way to cut in two different colours of emulsion into the internal corners of a room. Thanks

 

[opps]

Hello again opps I’m looking for some advice on the best way to cut in two different colours of emulsion into the internal corners of a room. Thanks

I use a decent 3" brush (Purdy, Wooster, etc - expect to pay about £18- ) and then use a lamp to create a shadow where the walls meet. I then follow that shadow line- you will need to spend a while moving the light source to create the shadow line.

Depending on the age of the plastering you may find that the corners are not uniform all the way down. Sometimes you need to bring one wall in by a couple of mm to enable you to get a (visually) straight line.

I recently had to cut white into black. It probably took about 5 passes until I was "happy".

Thin the emulsion slightly to help it flow. Try to do long strokes with the brush positioned at 75ish degrees to the adjacent wall so that bristles are pretty much in line. Sorry if that isn't clear, brushes, even from the same maker exhibit slightly different properties with regard to how the bristles bend when loaded with paint. Don't overload the brush, you don't want to create a ridge of paint as you cut in.

IIRC Wooster make a paint pad with wheels at the edge for cutting in if you find that easier. Again, if the walls are not straight you have problems.

Here is one with pretty bad reviews

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shur-line-Premium-Ceiling-Paint-Edger/dp/B0001MQI9E

 

[nabby68]

Thanks opps. Great advice again. I’m cutting in grey onto white. Was thinking of using frog tape to get a clean line? Your thoughts?

 

[opps]

Thanks opps. Great advice again. I’m cutting in grey onto white. Was thinking of using frog tape to get a clean line? Your thoughts?

Worth a try if you are not comfortable with doing it by eye/brush. I have never used frog tape, just make sure that it is properly adhered so that the paint doesn't weep under the edges. Try to minimise the paint build up on the edge of the tape. Too much and it may leave a ripped edge when you remove it.

Removing the tape shortly after cutting in may reduce the risk.

 

[cwhaley]

Another method is to draw a straight line using spirit level and pencil, which gives you a crisp/clean line to follow when cutting in. I was off work a fortnight ago and did this and very happy with results.

 

[nabby68]

Hi opps looking to clarify something in your first reply regarding painting of my stairs. Do I sand just once after the first coat of water based undercoat? Or again after the oil based undercoat?
Thanks again

 

[opps]

No need to sand the undercoat unless you want to minimise all tramlines (read: brush strokes).