First some background...
I am in the middle of modernising my kitchen, floor to ceiling. So far everything has been a simple case of replacing old for new, but with the oven and hob I wanted some advice before continuing.
The problem...
My old free standing cooker was wired directly to the cooker switch. The switch I have recessed into the wall and put a new faceplate on. However the new oven should be connected to a plug (manufacturers instruction) and the hob is gas with ignition.
From what I've read it's wise not to have the hob and oven share a connection and somewhere along the line needs to be a fuse and a switch to isolate.
The plan...
I was thinking of using the spur from the cooker switch to supply a double socket recessed into the wall behind the oven, then connecting the hob and oven with their own plugs. This would give me a socket that can be isloated, and fuses. The problems with this idea is that the fuses would be a bugger to replace should they blow and I'm not sure of what would be considered safe clearance for a socket behind an oven.
The other idea is to carve a channel down from the cooker switch and run the spur directly down to behind a kitchen unit, then carve out a hole in the back of the unit to make it accessible. While this would give access and negate clearance issues, it's much more work.
I also wondered about putting in a fuse switch next to the cooker switch with the correct size and oversize the ones in the plugs so the switch goes first.
Lastly would this need to be reported etc...
Any advice appreciated.
Info from the plates...
Gas Hob:
Candy PL 40 AX
∑ 7,1kw
(*edit* that gobbledegook should have been the Greek symbol for Sigma)
Electric Oven:
Candy FL 134 X UK
Type=MNO3
2,300 W
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I am in the middle of modernising my kitchen, floor to ceiling. So far everything has been a simple case of replacing old for new, but with the oven and hob I wanted some advice before continuing.
The problem...
My old free standing cooker was wired directly to the cooker switch. The switch I have recessed into the wall and put a new faceplate on. However the new oven should be connected to a plug (manufacturers instruction) and the hob is gas with ignition.
From what I've read it's wise not to have the hob and oven share a connection and somewhere along the line needs to be a fuse and a switch to isolate.
The plan...
I was thinking of using the spur from the cooker switch to supply a double socket recessed into the wall behind the oven, then connecting the hob and oven with their own plugs. This would give me a socket that can be isloated, and fuses. The problems with this idea is that the fuses would be a bugger to replace should they blow and I'm not sure of what would be considered safe clearance for a socket behind an oven.
The other idea is to carve a channel down from the cooker switch and run the spur directly down to behind a kitchen unit, then carve out a hole in the back of the unit to make it accessible. While this would give access and negate clearance issues, it's much more work.
I also wondered about putting in a fuse switch next to the cooker switch with the correct size and oversize the ones in the plugs so the switch goes first.
Lastly would this need to be reported etc...
Any advice appreciated.
Info from the plates...
Gas Hob:
Candy PL 40 AX
∑ 7,1kw
(*edit* that gobbledegook should have been the Greek symbol for Sigma)
Electric Oven:
Candy FL 134 X UK
Type=MNO3
2,300 W
