wiring oven and hob

[MGPB1936]

I am fitting a new oven and gas hob and plan to use the original 40amp (CU fuse to be changed to 20amp) cooker supply to terminate in a 13 amp switched socket for the oven, and a separate 13 amp switched socket (3 amp fuse in plug top) for the hob.
Can both the outlets be fixed on the wall directly behind the oven?

 

[RF Lighting]

Is there an accesible cooker isolator switch above the worktop?

 

[ColJack]

you will struggle to get 2 6mm cables into one of the sockets, i'd just go for a double socket unless you plan on having over counter switches?

and yes as long as there is clearance for it i see no problem having it behind the hob save for the obvious one of changing a fuse if it blows.. ( best to put it in a cupboard next to it if possible.. )

 

[MGPB1936]

Many thanks for your quick replies.
Yes there is a cooker isolation switch above the worktop, would it be better to terminate this in a cooker outlet connection instead of a 13 amp socket? If I use the cooker outlet connection should I connect the with the regular 45amp cable or use heat resisting?
I will have an switched FCU above the worktop for the hob.

 

[securespark]

A double socket is still rated a 13A. If the oven is 13A, it is best to have two singles.

Behind the hob? Building Regs suggest not within 300mm of the edge of hob or sink unit.

Behind the oven? See above. If you mean behind the unit, you will have problems if a fuse fails.

Building Regs say you should not fix accessories to furniture, but to the fabric of the building - some say the furniture becomes the fabric when it is fixed down. It's your call.

As RF says, there really ought to be an isolator for the cooker within 2m of the appliance.

 

[ColJack]

since it is a 13 amp fuse, then it won't be 13 amps since these things are never designed to be that close.. even a 3KW heater is only 12.5 amps ( based on the ACTUAL voltage of 240.. ( 230's a european myth.. most places are 240+..)

even then, diversity takes effect, and while you may be cooking for a long time with the oven it will be cycling on on off to maintain the given temperature..

the hob is gas so will only be using the power for a spark igniter and maybe a clock.. ( but aren't these usually on the oven?? ) so it's needs can largely be ignored...

as for fixing to furniture, i assume you mean my comment on putting it in the cupboard.. obviously i meant to fix it to the wall behind the cupboard and cut a hole into the back to gain access ot the plugs..

i tought it was at least a metre from the edge of any sink etc for sockets?? ( although my reach is about 1.8 metres with my hand in a sink...)


If the oven is suitable for a 13 amp plug then the 45 amp cable would be a massive overkill and probably won't fit the connectors in the oven.. i'd go for 2.5 heat resisting cable..

If you use the existing cable and a cooker outlet then you can always put in an electric hob later if you needed to.