air in system grrrrrr

[darren7]

ok this has been asked many times, I know.......... just cant seem to get the air out the system.......

downstairs

4 Radiators, 3 have TVR and Pegler Wasp on the other end, and 1 (porch) has wasp both ends.


Upstairs

3 rads and one heated towel rail, all rads have TVR and wasp on the other end. Rail has 2 lockshields.

well I have filled the system to just over 1 bar and ran it up but I cant get all the air out, I have started with the one with the greatest distance from the boiler and moved inwards downstairs, I have also bleed the air out of the pump.

but there is still air in the system, and it is fairly noisy when started, not a banging, just a little noisy rushing of water as though there is air in it.

one of the rads downstairs nearest the boiler still has air in it, what I would like to ask is this.

what positions should all the valves and lockshields be in, and is there any tips or better ways to bleed the system from scratch.

many thanks

Darren

 

[weareleeds]

Don't know what you mean pressure up tp 1 bar as surely this will force out air is it a new system that isn't piped up correctly are the l/s valves open etc

 

[darren7]

I have had all the rads off as the plasterer has been in? the system is fine, I upgraded one of the rads while they were off to a double....that is is.......I have asked position of valves, and then you ask me what I have asked! I have even told you the makes.

D

 

[brumylad]

what positions should all the valves and lockshields be in

TRV wide open when filling and balancing, set to whatever you like thereafter.

Lockshield valves, set to balance the system. Do a search on balancing radiators.

 

[croydoncorgi]

On a sealed system with the correct pressure (1 Bar is about right for a 2-storey house) all the air (if it IS air and there are no air leaks INTO the system) will find its way out of the system altogether via the boiler's internal automatic bleed valve OR will gradually migrate upwards to the radiators upstairs.

If your problem is that you've drained the system, refilled it and now you can hear 'trickling' noises of water running through pipes - that's slightly different. This usually means a lot of air is in there and if you run the system there's a risk that a large volume of air may suddenly find its way to the boiler ( which will then be 'boiling dry' - a very Bad Thing) or to the pump, if this is separate (another Bad Thing because C/H circulator pumps will not pump air - only water.

More likely, you're hearing 'bubbling' noises in pipes and radiators, or whooshing noises from the pump. If these noises come and go, or get less frequent - probably best to wait a while until the air has settled into the tops of one or more radiators, then re-bleed them. (Remembering to re-adjust the system pressure afterwards.)

Also remember that air does dissolve in water. How much depends on the temperature and pressure - which is why air tends to be 'cooked out' and hopefully automatically vented by the boiler and move to lower-pressure areas - eg. upstairs radiators.

If the problem persists, it would be a good idea to check that the automatic valve in the boiler is actually working. It' usually a brass cylinder about 40mm diameter and 60mm high, with a small red or black screw cap on top. This cap should be LOOSE, to let the air out. sometimes they leak water and end up tightened down instead of repaired - another Bad Thing (NOT the pressure relief valve, which usually has a LARGE red or grey plastic cap)

 

[darren7]

yes the air was really bad upstairs, and is a little better now....the towel rail was the worst......but the caps on the top are a good place to put the senital x100..... so its tvr and wasps open then bleed and balance....thanks guys


Darren