Alpha CB24 DHW flow valve

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Does anyone have an exploded diagram they could send me, please?

The Alpha part number for the diverter valve assembly is 3.012752.

snoopydog
 
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Hi m8, sorry been out for a long day, just got the message.

It's pretty simple. The right hand side contains a fairly common sprung diapraghm and pushrod, which is drawn away from the hydraulic diverting section by dhw flow. As this pushrod oves away from the pushrod containing two bobbins that cause diversion of primary water, a spring at the far end pushes that pushrod to meet it. This causes the two shamfered ends of each push rod to move into a position such that the white wedge shaped tip of the dhw microswitch which is also sprung loaded to drop neatly into the v formed by the two shamfered pushrod ends. The microswitch makes contact and the pcb is told to start the pump, fan, prove it, restart it send gas through and light the burner.

A tear in the diaphragm can occur, the dhw side can be removed made easier by pump removal. The nut on top interfacing with the plate heat exchanger can be a pain to start the thread on reassembly and would require a new 1/2" washer. on puting back together with new diaphragm springs and push rod assembly (pushrod lubed with silicon lube or spittle), care to centre the diapragm witthin tehe brass parts or it will leak as the diapragm has to sit neatly centred. This is a little tricky to achieve and the aforementioned nut for the connection to the dhw plate involves some muscleing into the right position and angle. In the worst case scenario the other three unions with the plate have to be loostened to accomodate sufficient positioning.

The primary hydraulic side seldom causes a problem but a good clean and new o rings would sort it should it become a problem.

The microswitch is far and above the most unrelaiable part of the assembly. It is insufficient to test it with a continuity meter, as even though it proves with a meter it can yet be incapable of passing the required current to instruct the pcb hot water is demanded.

Chris R did put up a diagram once. I am not aware of any others.

If you have one in bits and are stuck please be more specific.
 
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Thank you very much Paul. I had the flow valve apart to clean it and couldn't remember how some of the bits were oriented on the shaft. what you said about the chamfering pointed me in the right direction.

So that is back in place, but the underlying problem remains:

I recently got the "no DHW but CH instead" problem and looking on the forum decided a new diverter valve diaphragm must be the answer. But when I took out the old one I found it looked OK - some signs of wear, but no holes. Still, I replaced it anyway, tried the DHW, no change.

So I decided maybe the flow valve needed cleaning... and now I am back at square one.

This is what happens when I turn on the DHW:

Light B comes on steady
Fan activates
Boiler lights and everything seems fine for about ten seconds, then the following all happen together:

Boiler goes out
There is a loud grinding/groaning noise from somehere at the back
The presure needle fluctuates up and down rapidly
Light A comes on red steady
Light B starts to flash at one second intervals

If I turn on the CH it works fine, but then using DHW causes the same symptoms.

Has anyone got any ideas about the most likely cause of the problem?

snoopydog
 
yes remove plate heat exchanger flush out the black side with as much water pressure as yo can say at outside tap. agitate it by banging with palm of hand tip out water and it will carry with it lumps of black debris. keep repeating, flush both directions. It may pay to buy some fx2 or x800 place whole kit and caboodle in large pan, soak in dilution of the chemical 3 hrs at 40 degrees c to 60 degrees c. Agitate poor out and back in etc etc. Then mains water flush.

After reassembly treat whole system with simillar chemical, run 1hr all rads open and runa few basins. Then flush 1 rad a time turning all but one off and shut any bypass. afterwards revert to all rads then drain, repeat with water, drain, fill again drain, refill with appropriate neutralising inhibitor recommended by the manufacturer of the cleanser you pick.

To replace the plate you need a new red o ring and some fibre washers, email your adress for free samples. ;)

I usually find that plain water flush gets hot water performance back to normal but clealy you can't get it all clean that way.

I don't know of a cheap supplier for this heat ex it doesn't seem to be used in any other boiler so if you want to go the full hog buy the new part.
 
Thank you Dan and especially Paul. I flushed the HE with water as Paul described. Not much debris came out and none of it was very chunky, so I was a bit apprehensive putting it back, but I should have had more faith - I have just had my first hot shower for about a week, so thank you very much indeed for your very kind assistance.

snoopydog
 
Hi i have a similar problem with my he cb 33

There is a hole in the valve directly bekow the horseshoe switch which has water driping from it,particulary when the hot water is on.

i have stripped it down tonight and changed the diaphragm and washers but its still the same.

would this kit do the job which includes the spindles

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Alpha-240-280...arden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item2a09fc50de

thanks
 
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No decision to make. That valve comes as a complete unit unlike the Alpha 240/280 valves.£104 is fair price as Alpha parts are expensive.
 
so is that the correct part i need? in the picture it just shows the divertor valve.

The water is dripping from the hole directly below the dhw switch where the two valves meet.
 
You are better starting a new thread. This way information offered is more to the point.
 

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