Another Cold Water Tank Question - Slightly different.

[happyhacker]

I am going to change my loft supply tank. I will be fitting one (or two) of those B&Q "ciffing" types at 190Ltr. Thing is to get a good head for my new mixer shower (not yet fitted) I need >= 1m head. So I am going to raise the new tank and the next convenient height gives me 1.5m. OK.

This raises the question about getting some "heat" to the underside as it is now not just above the ceiling. My idea was to get a length of 150mm soil pipe, stand it above the airing cupboard ceiling sealed to that area with a couple of small holes to let a tiny bit of air through and by a couple of 45 deg. bends aim the other end to the centre bottom of the tank(s) with a gap (10mm) to allow the air to flow around the bottom of the tank.

I do not want to "flood" the loft with heated air so hence this more "controlled" method.

Ideas and comments welcome. PS, yes I know even if the tank freezes it will not burst like a pipe but I guess I should allow.

 

[bustersmum]

Read up on a by law 30 kit.
Regards

 

[happyhacker]

I have, the tank comes with such a kit. My particular problem is not related specifically to bylaws.

 

[TicklyT]

I would consider just running the loft insulation up all the sides of the platform for the tank, leaving an uninsulated but sealed section of ceiling directly below the tank.
The conduction through the ceiling at the gap in the loft insulation, combined with the insulated 'chimney' under the tank keeping the heat where you want it should keep a well insulated tank warm enough without your vent duct.

Ducting relatively humid warm air from inside the house onto the underside of the relatively cold tank may lead to condensation in the loft.

 

[happyhacker]

Thanks, TicklyT I think that's the basis for a solution. We probably only need about a couple of sq. foot of bare ceiling to do that.