Another question about the Yale HSA6400 alarm.

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Fitted one of these wireless DIY alarms last year.

Started off by setting it for short periods whilst out walking the dog, doing the shopping, etc, but never employed it whilst away from the house for any length of time. Mainly because I don't fully trust it due to the number of faults it throws up, and in particular the "tamper" alerts. This evening it's done it again, showing "low battery" on a PIR; a fault which was easily cured by taking the batteries out of the unit and putting them in again.

OK, maybe I should invest in a wired system but in the meantime, is there anything I can do to stop or reduce the number of seemingly unnecessary tamper warnings?
 
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which device(s) are getting the Tamper warnings?

When you got a Low Battery warning, why did you decide not to change the battery?
 
Two reasons: one, I changed the batteries in the same PIR on the last occasion when it threw up a warning, just a few weeks ago, and secondly because I don't have any spares in the house. The last tamper warning before this one was a patio door contact that could only be dealt with by disabling the device.

I've been reading through your exchanges with another forum user who seems far less convinced that wireless is the way to go, alarm wise. Its enjoyable to read, but I'm really not too concerned about all those master criminals hanging around outside with jamming devices.

I just want an alarm system which gives me confidence in its ability to do the basics.
 
might be tarnish on the battery contacts. I sometimes wonder if it happens when there is a draught, e.g. on a doorframe. Try polishing the contacts clean with a nylon toothbrush and a millionth of a drop of WD40. For some reason Duracells are not standard dimensions and may not fit well. I got a mixed box of alkalines from Maplin, or Memorex are cheap on Ebay.

Persistent tamper can be cover not fitted correctly, or device not screwed firmly to wall. For doors, put the magnet on the door and the sensor on the frame, not quite touching, to prevent vibration shocks when door slammed. Some doors have a curved or Ogee architrave, I found it useful to build up a flat platform with filler (wrap the sensor in clingfilm to keep the filler out until set) then screw though that. I use my own longer fixing screws and a pilot hole.

I lost a cover screw once and wrote to Yale, they kindly sent me a couple of spare screws.

p.s.
If you are suspicious of false alarms, you can set the siren to 1-second hoot, to avoid annoying the neighbours, and use the night "at home" setting while you gain confidence. I like to put doors on Chime so you can hear that it is working. This is also useful if you have small children wanting to escape.

Keep an eye on the red lights on the sensor. If they don't "sleep" after triggering and glow too much, the sensor may be in test mode which signals a lot and will run the battery down fast. I keep a tester in the battery drawer. Should easily last two years.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...r+-usb.TRS0&_nkw=battery+tester+-usb&_sacat=0
 
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Thanks very much for all that.

The sensors visibly react to movement for a few minutes after battery replacement, then the red light goes out, so I presume that means they are "sleeping" as you suggest.

I'll try cleaning the contacts, maybe blowing/ hoovering out the insides of the sensors to remove any dust. Might even replace all the batteries and start from scratch. Could it be that stray spiders looking for a home are to blame for these incidents?(not with the door contact, obviously).

My ultimate goal is to have a wired system fitted when I can afford it, but I would like to be confident that this wireless alarm is as reliable as possible in the meantime.
 
I've heard of spider interference, but never experienced it.
 
Seems it was unfair to blame the poor old arachnids anyhow.

Whilst I was at work today the low battery warning went off again, so I purchased some new batteries and replaced the old when I got home.

Hopefully that's it for another few months.
 

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