Any ideas on dealing with vanity unit up against a wonky wall?

[Joe Fixit]

Hi all,

Finishing stages in bathroom Reno and only realised the wall is not square. Got a tapered gap at the back of the vanity and wondered anyone had any ideas on any quick and easy solutions please? (I.e. not rebuilding the wall so it's square?)

Gap at the top is approx. 9mm

 

[cdbe]

Bit of trim to your taste/scribe and trim (but you'd have to do the top as well and I wouldn't if it had a finished end as water will get in it)/thin strip of tiles to match the one overlapping on top/bash out a bit of plaster and push the unit back (wouldn't need much as you could hide 4-5mm with a silicone bead).

 

[Joe Fixit]

Bit of trim to your taste/scribe and trim (but you'd have to do the top as well and I wouldn't if it had a finished end as water will get in it)/thin strip of tiles to match the one overlapping on top/bash out a bit of plaster and push the unit back (wouldn't need much as you could hide 4-5mm with a silicone bead).

The tile on top of the vanity is not fixed. I was playing with whether to have the tile sit on top or move the countertop forward and slide tile behind it. I'm guessing on top is best but due to other reasons, sliding tile behind gives me benefits (regarding tap design).

I'm thinking trim would be nice and simple and look better than thin strip of tiles either side of the unit matching the top (don't know why, but makes me think of a fire place/mantle) and would have to worry about everything being perfectly square etc. maybe a faux wood pattern trim

 

[Joe Fixit]

I wouldn't if it had a finished end as water will get in it)/

What did you mean by this?

 

[opps]

I do not understand why (the rear of) the top of the unit is not flush with (the edges of) the flanks.

How does the top connect to the lower part of the unit?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

I do not understand why (the rear of) the top of the unit is not flush with (the edges of) the flanks.

How does the top connect to the lower part of the unit?

Probably because it's not designed to go hard up against a wall like it is here.

 

[Joe Fixit]

What did you mean by this?

It's because the countertop is not fixed. I was moving it band forth

 

[Joe Fixit]

Probably because it's not designed to go hard up against a wall like it is here.

So no need to silicone the edge? I would have thought that would be wise considering it a vanity unit for sinks?

 

[opps]

It's because the countertop is not fixed. I was moving it band forth

That makes sense.

If the wall has a horizontal bow but is ok vertically, just scribe the "floor/base" of the unit to match the horizontal bow. The flanks should then line up fine. Apropos the top, you can either scribe that or channel out some plaster.

 

[Joe Fixit]

That makes sense.

If the wall has a horizontal bow but is ok vertically, just scribe the "floor/base" of the unit to match the horizontal bow. The flanks should then line up fine. Apropos the top, you can either scribe that or channel out some plaster.

Great idea. Would you silicone the side edges to prevent water going behind?

 

[cdbe]

What did you mean by this?

If the backs of the panels that go against the wall are factory edged with laminate rather than bare chipboard/MDF I would not be cutting into it as it's a path for moisture.

 

[GhostIntMachine]

If the backs of the panels that go against the wall are factory edged with laminate rather than bare chipboard/MDF I would not be cutting into it as it's a path for moisture.

But when you install kitchens in older houses you invariably need to do just that sort of thing, especially on sink base units. If I do need to cut into the edges at the back of a cabinet I always seal the cut edges with something like a couple of coats of old oil-based paint, boiled linseed oil or similar (even silicone) and then I seal the panel to wall/tile joint with a silicone bead after the cabinet is fixed in place. I don't see any difference between a kichen cabinet and a bathroom vanity in that respect

 

[opps]

Great idea. Would you silicone the side edges to prevent water going behind?

Rather than silicone, I would go with a clear MS polymer such as CT1.

The main problem with silicone is that it will repel paint when you cut in the wall emulsion to the unit.

With regards to water ingress. In normal usage, the rear of base of the unit should not get wet. Splashed water will run down the sides or front of the unit.