Any Saunier Duval Experts around??

Thank you very much for your reply!

hi benedekl

The fault with mine was the motor on the diverter valve. The motor wasnt working correctly. Apparently if you listen carefully, you can hear a click as the motor kicks in to divert the water from heating to hot water. There was no click so i changed the valve, cost me about £20, and its worked fine ever since.

I'm guess my problem is the motor too, because I've replaced the valve fully, however not sure about it. Now it's not clear for me what helped for you, have you changed the valve or the motor on it (maybe bad wording only)?
 
Sponsored Links
i changed the motor head only and the valve was fine (the pin was moving freely)

Motor i changed was this bit...

images
 
i changed the motor head only and the valve was fine (the pin was moving freely)

Motor i changed was this bit...

images

Seems exacly like mine. It moves so it must be not totally dead, but the moving distance may be too short to push the valve's pin correctly. I will disassemble it and we'll see.
 
i thought the same, mine appeared to move but my dads mate is a boiler engineer and told me it wasnt working correctly. So as he advised i changed it and havent looked back since. Apparently its a common problem with saunier duvals.
 
Sponsored Links
i thought the same, mine appeared to move but my dads mate is a boiler engineer and told me it wasnt working correctly. So as he advised i changed it and havent looked back since. Apparently its a common problem with saunier duvals.
Well, the good news is my heater seems to be working fine again, but I'm not sure about the root of the problem. I've disassembled that motor on the valve head and examined it's working. Everything seemd fine with it, but I found something interesting about the fixing of the motor. The original one had the word "YES" on it and the new one which come with the new valve kit has the word "OK" on it. And they were stuck onto them in the opposite direction! As far as I know I sholuld insert it back in the direction in which the text is readable (not upside down). Now I put back the new fixing (in the opposite position compared to the original). I'm not sure if the reversal of the fixing was the cure or the reassembly of the motor... Anyway thank you again for the tip!
 
I would never recommend opening those motors!

The way they work its difficult to imagine not pushing enough. The movement is probably about 8-9 mm.

I have never noticed any "yes" on any but it is important that they are correctly fitted to enable them to push enough.

It is an actual unidirectional motor which motors to the next position and is stopped by opening contacts when it has reached the right spot.

Tony
 
Yes Tony, it works exactly as you said, and it seems reliable enough. This is why I suspect it must be the fixing which was in the wrong position, but I don't want to dismount the heater again... The fixing which I now placed reversed is the S54663 part on the following image:
http://www.cyberbricoleur.com/uploads//imported/20060530/fichier_73869.jpg
Now mine stands like the one on the image, the flat side sees towards the motor. Before reversing the flat side faced the valve actuator. Those flat surfaces have the text "YES" and "OK" on them.
 
Most boilers are supplied with the clip flange pointing AWAY from the motor.

There will be a very slight difference caused by the curvature of the spring but that is probably less than 0.4 mm at the most. Not enough for me to expect it would by itself make any difference!

Tony
 
evening chaps - I'm new to this forum so please be gentle with me.....

I've also got an SD combi f30e. Over the past few days the boilers only been coming in when the hot water is turned on full blast (and then its only lukewarm. I took a look at the diverter pin and noticed that it was damp / corroded and the hot water had to be turned right up before the pin made any contact with the boiler microswitch. I've ordered a new diaphragm repair kit but I have a couple of questions

1 - what do I need to turn off / isolate / drain before I start taking things apart?
2 - how do I bleed the system afterwards (I'm assuming that I'll be introducing air to the system by dismantling things)
3 - I can get my hands on Sentinel pretty cheap (all variants) so how do I actually put it into the system (I can'y see any entry points anywhere)?????

cheers
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top