Anyone used these "Wall in a box" kits?

JDLDIY · 30 Nov 2005

Thinking of using one of these to erect a partition wall in my kitchen, which will have kitchen units and larder sunk into it.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101228&ts=93207&id=22034

Anyone used one, are they any good? My thinking is that the width of the partition wall would be a little narrower than if I used timber and that might help me as I'm tight for space.

JD

makitaman · 1 Dec 2005

I used a similar kit to this a while back, I was initially a bit sceptical however it went up with ease and appeared to be fairly substantial with 12.5mm skimmed boards, it was a straight forward corridor divide nothing hanging from it. I'm no convert though, ever since have used timber, it just seems to me to be more substantial.

I'd also like some feedback on anyone else's experience[/quote]

nstreet · 1 Dec 2005

You could get quite a bit of 4x2 for the price of the wall in a box and a bag of screws too. You will be paying a premium for the convenience, you will also have to trim it to fit your application, so why not just stick to wood.

jbonding · 1 Dec 2005

shop about, metal stud i would recommend to any one. there might be a slight difference in price but how many times have you found the difference in price if you shop about.metal stud is a lot quicker to erect, less mess, light weight construction and all you need is tin snips a level and a cordless drill and tape measure. it takes up less space than timber to carry and to throw away. mf ceiling systems i would also recommend.

masona · 2 Dec 2005

What about the width of the door frame?

makitaman · 2 Dec 2005

You have to buy 2 lots, an inner and outer facing frame, hence the cost implications. As was said earlier timber makes more sense.

jbonding · 2 Dec 2005

masona said:
What about the width of the door frame?

you buy the thickness you need to suit the casing, it comes in the same thicknesses as wood.strips of timber are fixed in between the metal around where the casing is fixed to get a decent fix.

masona · 3 Dec 2005

Okay, what you reckon, cheaper, quicker or dearer ways of doing stud wall instead of timber?

Do you also have to pre-drill the hole for the plasterboard screws?

JDLDIY · 3 Dec 2005

You have to buy 2 lots, an inner and outer facing frame, hence the cost implications. As was said earlier timber makes more sense

Are you sure? The screwfix website says it is C channel, so I was thinking you would just fit the plasterboard to each sids of the frame. Obviously door openings might complicate that/require 2 kits to be bought, but I would only be erecting cupboard doors from it, not thicker internal doors.

makitaman · 3 Dec 2005

I can only comment on the frames we used, can't for the life of me remember who the manufacturer was. I can't see any reason why you couldn't fix the boards either side of the frame, but I'm no expert with metal frames.

Probably why I stick to wood

jbonding · 3 Dec 2005

masona said:
Okay, what you reckon, cheaper, quicker or dearer ways of doing stud wall instead of timber?

Do you also have to pre-drill the hole for the plasterboard screws?

no dry wall screws are sound look here http://www.keelsupply.co.uk/

JDLDIY · 3 Dec 2005

mf ceiling systems i would also recommend.

Got a link for that jbonding?

JD

masona · 4 Dec 2005

Here one of them

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Anyone used these "Wall in a box" kits?

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