Approved for new build

Rules have changed, provided it has its own WHB then it's fine to have a bathroom/toilet a kitchen.
 
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You may find that you can't have a bathroom/toilet opening directly into a living/cooking area.
When I had an extension added to one of my homes, a number of years ago, They had to put in an 'ante-space'. In effect, a small room with 2 doors to act as a sort of airlock. Rules may have changed but be aware of it.

I had one place, which had two doors, spaced 6" apart, with an extract fan in the airlock.
 
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I had one place, which had two doors, spaced 6" apart, with an extract fan in the airlock.
I think they got rid of this two door rule a few years ago.

Even so, I wouldn't want someone laying a log right next to where I'm making dinner. I'd avoid the bathroom entering the kitchen at all if possible, with or without an extra door. Via a proper hallway and round a corner or two seems more civilised to me, as shown on the plans.
 
Right, short update. I had some issues with party wall, neighbour was being a pleb but all sorted now after spending an unnecessary 3k.

Ready to go ahead in the next week or two. I'll post an update soon as the footings have been dug.

I am in a bit of a dilemma about the sewage run. Basically the main road deserving the house does not have a sewer running along it, so easiest thing to do would it be go back to the existing property where I have a private manhole. It's quite shallow about 14 inches and the pipe length to manhole will be approx 33meters.

How do I calculate fall to see whether I can go straight to manhole or if I will need a pump?

Thanks in advance
 
Check the building regs for yourself, they're free to download. But I think it's 1 in 40 if no toilet or 1 in 80 with a toilet. Many mistakenly think it's the other way round, but this is how it is. I think the theory is that a toilet flush will clear it better than a handwash basin or kitchen sink.

My pipes are all 1 in 80 and it works fine. Get a decent gradient level, don't just rely on the bubble being a bit off-centre as far too many do. Whatever gradient you use, ensure it's very consistent. If it varies along the length then the flow will speed up and slow down, leaving stuff behind.
 
Right, short update. I had some issues with party wall, neighbour was being a pleb but all sorted now after spending an unnecessary 3k.

I am in a bit of a dilemma about the sewage run.


not sure your neighbour was being “pleb” - they were exercising their rights

as for the drains - best you consult your BCO before you do too much or they could cause you problems later on (and asking them first often gets you brownie points)
 
Well, his building is offset from the boundary (where I will be digging) by 2m. The site is completely remote to where the work is happening, he's just a very difficult person.

Thanks though, I will 'ask' the bco just to score some points
 
Spoke to the BCO and he said 1in80. How do I calculate the height the waste would be at the point of entry if the depth of the manhole is roughly 33cm? Length of the waste pipe will be approx 33meters.

What I'm trying to do here is future out how high the building / floor base needs to be.
 
You need to establish the relative height of the (approximate) floor level in relation to the drain invert. 33 meters at 1:80 is 33000(mm)÷80 so 415mm total fall thereabouts.
 
I am in a bit of a dilemma about the sewage run. Basically the main road deserving the house does not have a sewer running along it, so easiest thing to do would it be go back to the existing property where I have a private manhole. It's quite shallow about 14 inches and the pipe length to manhole will be approx 33meters.

It isn't going to work is it. If the manhole is only 14" deep and it really is 33metres, you need ~40cm fall for 1:80 - it'll be out the ground by the end.
 
It isn't going to work is it. If the manhole is only 14" deep and it really is 33metres, you need ~40cm fall for 1:80 - it'll be out the ground by the end.
Perhaps? :)

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