aquatronic +1 electric shower not giving hot water

[noddy997]

My Aquatronic +1 7.5kw electric shower has been giving cold water. It doesnt give hot water. So I replaced it for a like to like Aquatronic +1 7.5kw shower, the same problem still exists.

I was told to check that the shower is getting 240v, it was getting between 230-240 nothing less and nothing above and I was told this is perfectly fine.

I was told the new shower is faulty, so I got it replaced AGAIN for the same model and the same problem persists. The water pressure is fine (not thast I have checked it) but it has a strong pressure on the cold setting. The existed there for a long time and suddenly its become spooky.

One thing I have noticed is that, if I turn the shower off from the pull cord, and put it on a hot setting and turn it on from the pull cord it gives hot water but if I change the temperature it goes cold and it wont go hot again.

Also the pull cord has a red led which is blinking. Could this be the issue? Or do you guys think the old shower packed up, and the current batch by Aquatronic is faulty?!

Any help appreciated, cheers.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The water pressure is fine (not thast I have checked it) but it has a strong pressure on the cold setting.

What about the flow rate, has that changed?
You would be very unlucky to get a number of faulty showers.
Quick call to your water undertakers, ask if there has been a change in water pressure.

 

[noddy997]

The water pressure is fine (not thast I have checked it) but it has a strong pressure on the cold setting.

What about the flow rate, has that changed?
You would be very unlucky to get a number of faulty showers.
Quick call to your water undertakers, ask if there has been a change in water pressure.

Aint that the same as pressure?

It doesnt seem changed.

If its water related then why does it give hot water on sum occurences?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Also the pull cord has a red led which is blinking. Could this be the issue?

Almost certainly.

Check the connections in the shower switch to see if any are loose. If there's any sign of overheating - discoloured copper or insulation, brittle insulation, the cables must be cut back beyond the damaged section.

Or do you guys think the old shower packed up, and the current batch by Aquatronic is faulty?!

Almost certainly not.

 

[noddy997]

Check the connections in the shower switch to see if any are loose. If there's any sign of overheating - discoloured copper or insulation, brittle insulation, the cables must be cut back beyond the damaged section.

But would that matter? I think its turned a bit greyish/whitish but Im still get the required voltage.

Ill check again anyway today and see if I can get the pull cord switch.

Also it just churns cold water out, all 3 showers did this, and they didnt "click". It did when I turned it on from the pull switch.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

But would that matter?

Yes - loose connections = high resistance connections = overheating connections = fire risk and inability to supply the shower properly.

I think its turned a bit greyish/whitish

Cut it back to where it is not discoloured and reterminate.

Replace the switch at the same time - it could well be damaged too.

but Im still get the required voltage.

Your voltmeter draws almost no current, therefore you don't see an voltage drop across the resistance of the poor connection.

A shower draws a great deal of current, and therefore when it's connected there will be a large voltage drop across the poor connection.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Aint that the same as pressure?

It doesnt seem changed.

If its water related then why does it give hot water on sum occurences?

Flow rate and water pressure, two different things.

 

[noddy997]

Aint that the same as pressure?

It doesnt seem changed.

If its water related then why does it give hot water on sum occurences?

Flow rate and water pressure, two different things.

I changed the pull cord switch, still the same issue. All votage checked its fine.

I rang triton and they said they cant come out til Monday.

I got someone else coming around tommorow to look at the water side of things. He was the only that said if there is lack of flow then the shower wont trigger he has seen these issues before. Even though Triton said water shouldnt be causing the issue its either electrical or shower, and I have checked all possible electrical issues.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Please let us know what it turns out to be.

 

[seco services]

I got someone else coming around tommorow to look at the water side of things. He was the only that said if there is lack of flow then the shower wont trigger he has seen these issues before. Even though Triton said water shouldnt be causing the issue its either electrical or shower, and I have checked all possible electrical issues.

Triton know it can be a pressure issue.
Your man is right it won't activate the pressure switch fully on the 2 micro switches, It'll be pressure not flow related.

You can check to see if your pressure switch is dropping out.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Have you bought a bigger rose lately?

 

[noddy997]

Have you bought a bigger rose lately?

Whats a rose?

And the award goes to PrenticeBoyofDerry...

The plumber came out, he said its the shower, failing that its defo the water intake the 2 stopcocks are knackered (they were old, unturnable and greenish!)

I have the same model at my house anyway, so eliminate the shower, I took it to my house, and it worked there...

So in the end I replaced the 2 stopcocks...1 for the main supply and 1 for the shower water pipe (I did this one first, and no change, so take it the main supply one was goner since there was a slight wetness/leak on it!!)

In all honesty, I cant believe its the water supply, you wouldnt just check those things, and all the electrical tests as you would assume its the shower thats packed up...

The plumber said when the manfacturer's engineer would come out he would check firstly the electric supply (isolation switch, cable size, trip fuse size), water pressure/flow, and THEN the shower...

He said he's been in the trade since 1971, and was a "learner" in 1966/7 and he stil learns new crap..

And I have read on the internet many houses dont have an individual external stopcock... they are shared amongst the street, luckily mine was individual (ever buy another house Ill make sure its got its own, very handy for times like these!)


Am looking to replace an isolation valve for my home shower I seen there are 2 types at toolstation - a standard isolating vavle and a "full bore" isolating valve what is the difference?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Have you bought a bigger rose lately?

Whats a rose?

The bit out of which the water flows.
One that is too big for the shower will reduce the pressure in the shower, and vice versa.

And I have read on the internet many houses dont have an individual external stopcock... they are shared amongst the street, luckily mine was individual

Not everything on the internet is true.

Am looking to replace an isolation valve for my home shower I seen there are 2 types at toolstation - a standard isolating vavle and a "full bore" isolating valve what is the difference?[/b]

Full bore means when open the hole is the same size as the pipe.
Standard will be smaller than the pipe.

 

[noddy997]

Full bore means when open the hole is the same size as the pipe.
Standard will be smaller than the pipe.

Cheers for that.

What about one of those valves with a handle? They can be easier to turn off Im just thinking ahead..

As for the rose, I didnt change it, it did have a tatty one on. I wouldnt have thought it would have effected pressure, since I bought a massive headed one for my home shower last year.. 4 or 5 months later the shower was smoking, and apparently that was due to the cables not being tight enough as they produce heat... cpouldnt been the rose could it?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

So why was the light on the shower switch flickering and the cable discoloured?