aquatronic +1 electric shower not giving hot water

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So why was the light on the shower switch flickering and the cable discoloured?

Wear and tear?

The cabling was installed when I was a kid, early 1990s?! So was the switch.. things do go old, dont work properly just like we do :D

The switch's mechanism wasnt that good anyway so good its replaced.

All in all, I dont think I needed a new shower its cost a hell a lot of more but saved on the labour costs...

£10 for 2 stopcocks
£6 for the isolation switch
£74 for the shower

Plus fuel and the time wasted, but atleast I know what to look for next time :p

Mind you, the mains stopcock was solid and VERY hard to open, and that was discoloured back in the days when I lived in that house again as a kid, so it could have been there since the 80s... I still got the 2 old stopcocks, didnt pay much attention to them except checking they opened fully, but gave up since it was "mancky" lol... Shall I check for any old dates, BS? lol
 

Am looking to replace an isolation valve for my home shower I seen there are 2 types at toolstation - a standard isolating vavle and a "full bore" isolating valve what is the difference?
As stated by EFLI, that a full bore service valve's body has the same internal diameter as that of the pipe work it is connected to, therefore offers less resistance to the water flow within the system.
You will notice that the body of the full bore isolation valve is bulkier than that of the standard isolation valve.

Full bore

Standard 15mm
Notice the different in size of the body of each valve, in relationship to the nut size.

Also be aware if you are fitting DIY, the valves have a directional arrow that indicates the direction of flow and they must be fitted that way around.
 
Problem has reoccurred! FFS!

The water goes hot and cold and in the handbook this is down to pressure!

Even though there is no demand elsewhere there seems to be a pressure drop!

Called out severn trent who are coming tommorow, the phone op made me fill 1 litre of water and that took about 10secs, apparently it should take 7secs...
 
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Bit dumb of it to have a simple pressure switch - it's flow rate over the heat exchanger which matters.

If you really can't get the fluctuations resolved, consider a Redring Selectronic - they have a genuine thermostatic control, not an all-or-nothing system. The heater can has multiple elements, and if the flow rate drops it just shuts some down rather than shutting everything down.
 
made me fill 1 litre of water and that took about 10secs, apparently it should take 7secs...

That is generally down to flow rate, measured in litres per second not pressure measured in bar or PSI.
Where was the reading taken from?
If at kitchen sink, sounds like a supply problem.
 
not an all-or-nothing system. The heater can has multiple elements, and if the flow rate drops it just shuts some down rather than shutting everything down.

Which the aquatronic has.

Have you cleaned your inlet filter since changing your stopcock etc ?
 
made me fill 1 litre of water and that took about 10secs, apparently it should take 7secs...

That is generally down to flow rate, measured in litres per second not pressure measured in bar or PSI.
Where was the reading taken from?
If at kitchen sink, sounds like a supply problem.

Yes at the kitchen sink (they wanted me to do it at nearest sink to mains supply). OBviously pressure drops as you go higher in the house i.e. the showers on first floor!

Redring Selectronic is 8.5kw I need 7.5kw since my cabling is 6mm. Besides, they are far too much over my budget £200-300!

Inlet filter on shower? No I havnt cleaned the inlet filter, didnt need cleaning as the shower is brand new..
 
Redring Selectronic is 8.5kw
The good one is 10.8kW.


Inlet filter on shower? No I havnt cleaned the inlet filter, didnt need cleaning as the shower is brand new..
It needed at least inspecting shortly after the time you first ran it after having done work on the supply pipework and possibly disturbed or introduced crud into the pipework which then got swept along into the filter.

Even if you did flush water through the pipe before connecting it to the shower as per the commissioning instructions.
 
not an all-or-nothing system. The heater can has multiple elements, and if the flow rate drops it just shuts some down rather than shutting everything down.

Which the aquatronic has.
No it has not.

It's a bog-standard entry model Triton, with an all-or-nothing cut off if the pressure drops, and a thermal cut out which is supposed to provide anti-scald protection (which is probably true if you stick rigorously to the medical definition of "scald").

It is not a thermostatic shower.
 
Pressure drop was down to...

Lead lock on lead supply pipe to copper pipe being damaged and p*ssing out every where in the basement...There was a sound coming from the mains inlet pipe, now its gone lol that cost £50!

Pressure is much better now, but the shower stil has its cold/hot intervals :S
 
I never mentioned triton was thermo shower.

You've been taken in by redrings literature this shower has nothing special than any electric shower apart from being thermostatic and adjusting water temp automatically rather than manually.
The outlet sensor is just the same as an outlet tco. the min flow works just the same as any main tco.

It's just an over rated lot of bumff to make it sound good.
 
Inlet filter on shower? No I havnt cleaned the inlet filter, didnt need cleaning as the shower is brand new..

Don't it ? you've had the mains on/off and more likely shifted all the crud.
As i said on page 1 you have pressure issue now it's flow related.
 
I never mentioned triton was thermo shower.
Well actually you did:


not an all-or-nothing system. The heater can has multiple elements, and if the flow rate drops it just shuts some down rather than shutting everything down.

Which the aquatronic has.

What I wrote in full was
consider a Redring Selectronic - they have a genuine thermostatic control, not an all-or-nothing system. The heater can has multiple elements, and if the flow rate drops it just shuts some down rather than shutting everything down.
The features are one and the same. Or cause and effect. Because the Redring has multiple elements which it can control individually, it can offer thermostatic control. It does thermostatic control because it can do things which are more sophisticated than just turn the whole, or half, the heater can on or off in response to pressure drop or overtemperature.

So even though you chopped off the first sentence, inextricably linked to the one you did quote, you said that the Triton had the same features as the Redring, i.e. it had the feature of thermostatic control.


You've been taken in by redrings literature this shower has nothing special than any electric shower apart from being thermostatic and adjusting water temp automatically rather than manually.
That's a little like "Apart from that, Mrs Lincoln, how did you enjoy the play?"

It has nothing special apart from being thermostatic? There may be 1 or 2 more now, but I can assure you that feature is far from not being special, and not being markedly different from a crude thermal cutout.

And I'm not being taken in by anything, I am being a user of a Selectronic who not once in over 7 years has suffered the "Ouch &*^%£$"@#!" when someone flushes the loo or turns on a cold tap, unlike I did many times when I had a boggo standard Triton with nothing but a crude thermal cutout.
 

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