Ariston combi probs and PCB

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Hi all

Have an Ariston 24 HE MFFI (I hear some sighing :) )
It had some ignition problems some time ago, Axx type errors but I got a RGI in and he vacuumed around the sensors in the combustion chamber from what he said. She was fine after.
Anyway that was several months ago.. now we are having problems with hot water (and will be main heating when it goes back on). The boiler lights for DHW and after about 1-2mins the boiler cuts off, water gradually goes cold and then the E33 and E34 errors pop up. If you wait a while or turn off water and wait 2mins it works again.

RGI changed water thermistor and later the flow sensor but to no avail. Then he went said it prob PCB.. I looked at the tech manual and it says about fan and pressure switch. I got him back and he tried new air pressure sensor an I asked him about weak fans, in which he said that is fine.. it didnt seem seezed or anything and boiler still played up when he had cover off.. it also blows out of the flue ok so I am not sure if the fan is a bit underpowering / on-way-out.

Anyhow we are at PCB now so although I have told him they are not £300 which he said they often are (not sure if I would of got billed that).
Seen them anywhere from £100-280

Anyone changed a main board on these.. looks easy enough however after looking at the documentation the 'soft light' and 'maximum pressure' pots need setup and I am not an RGI.. however I could set them to the same as the old board. So how critical are they?
 
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The plain fact is that you should not be touching any parts of the boiler which have any part in the combustion process. That includes opening the combustion chamber or changing the PCB.

In any case I don't expect that its the PCB at fault but then I have not seen your boiler.

If I suspected a weak fan then I would have measured the speed with a laser tacho.

We don't give advice on gas/combustion issues here so can only suggest you get a better RGI or see if the makers do a fixed price repair. I would doubt it needs anything very expensive though.

That make are not very popular with RGIs so if you call any ask if they are familiar with them. Many unfortunately are not skilled with repairs and will try to sell you a new boiler.

I always charge a diagnostic fee ! My advice would be to avoid those who don't! But then I would say that.

Tony
 
Thanks Dan that is more the sort of info I was after.. but I do doubt they are 100% spot on all the time as they are only set by potientiometers and it would not be difficult to replicate the old setting across, at least until the boiler has a proper service.. however if they really are that critical then ill leave it until I can save the cash up..

That includes opening the combustion chamber or changing the PCB.

First off this is a DIY forum and I am purely trying to ask for some friendly advice so I can attain what is doable withing my limits and what isnt. I have NOT been in any combustion chamber the PCB is 2 screws away on the front panel ffs.

Is this forum just to promote RGIs then?

We don't give advice on gas/combustion issues here so can only suggest you get a better RGI or see if the makers do a fixed price repair. I would doubt it needs anything very expensive though.

I wasnt after particular gas type advice. The PCB is a controller yes if it wasnt for the `gas setting` components of it, hence why I asked!
How the would you know what it needs? As you dont how can you say its not expensive :confused:

I always charge a diagnostic fee ! My advice would be to avoid those who don't! But then I would say that.

I find it ridicolous that I get charged for looking at a boiler even if they cant fix it... I wouldnt mind being charged if I had a sure answer to what is wrong, not ill have a look change this change that while the labour charges rack up. what a joke.

Dunno what to do now..
 
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This is a DIY forum. As such it is for us as professionals to advise you what a DIYer can do and what a DIYer can not.

I do doubt they are 100% spot on all the time as they are only set by potentiometers and it would not be difficult to replicate the old setting across

Only goes to show your ignorance I suppose.

If the boiler was serviced properly each year, then the settings are checked and adjusted as needed.

THe level of friendliness is pretty irrelevant - the accuracy of the advice is far more important and rather than promoting RGI's, we are promoting your safety and that of your loved ones.

Look through some of the other posts recently where we have had non registered work dangerous hot water cylinders the works. That kind of practice needs to be eliminated and having DIYers tinkering with bits of boilers only makes the work of the next RGI harder and more risky.

Two screws to open a combustion chamber? Well - its only a few jubilee clips holding the fuel line on my car together. As for the brake lines.... well they are nicely exposed and not the sturdiest when you come think of them. All factory fitted though.

Tony does his fixed price diagnosis - I do free estimates. Different companies have different policies. You need to find one that can help. If in doubt give Ariston a ring and they can put you in touch with some one local.

Unfortunately for you, home ownership is expensive sometimes.
 
>>>Only goes to show your ignorance I suppose.

yeh thats why i am asking on here, shows how ignorant i am...

>Look through some of the other posts recently where we have had non >registered work dangerous hot water cylinders the works. That kind of >practice needs to be eliminated and having DIYers tinkering with bits of >boilers only makes the work of the next RGI harder and more risky.

I agree however there I didnt come here for a lecture ok, some friendly info.

>Two screws to open a combustion chamber? Well - its only a few jubilee >clips holding the fuel line on my car together. As for the brake lines.... >well they are nicely exposed and not the sturdiest when you come think >of them. All factory fitted though.

only shows your ignorance i suppose.. who said it was 2 screws to do that.. really what are you waffling about :?: as said not touched that.

>Tony does his fixed price diagnosis - I do free estimates. Different >companies have different policies. You need to find one that can help. If >in doubt give Ariston a ring and they can put you in touch with some one >local.

cool

>Unfortunately for you, home ownership is expensive sometimes

yep and friendly advice...
 
You've had advice... why does it have to be friendly? It certainly hasn't been rude.

If you want something for free, take what you're given ;). Don't complain if you don't get told what you wanted to be told.

I have NOT been in any combustion chamber the PCB is 2 screws away on the front panel ffs
.

I misread this the first time. Apologies. But there is no need to swear ffs.

Ironically. The combustion chamber is only a few screws away.


I hope I have deciphered your reply properly. It is easier if you use the quote system rather than your own random application of chevrons :D.


There we go... smilies. Friendly enough?
 
well that is the problem with forums, its hard to see how things are meant.
Best start again ..

I have not stripped my boiler down as I dont do gas. I just wanted to know if it was easy to change the pcb. Hence I had enough respect of gas and you qual'ed people to ask in the first place.

Ive got an electrical and computer background see so seeing a pcb in front of me which needs unplugging and simply a pcb change is something id consider tackling. Ive not done any gas related stuff to the boiler, havent the knowledge etc.. but after seeing the gas setup section of the pcb I thought oh heck best leave it.. hence why I asked as if the setting were not too critical.

I appreciate you get the odd numpty on here but I am not really.

hopefully you get me now. bad quoting as im on a phone
 
The PCB is controlling gas pressures.

It is not a case of looking at the dials on the pots and making the new ones the same.

You need to be measuring the gas pressure at the same time as making the adjustments. Get it wrong and you could cause some serious issues.
 
yeh the setup procedure was in the manual and I could see they were measuring pressures, and I wondered if they were very sensitive or roundabout in which case I could of got the board working and got the guy to finish off. I even seen some older posts where people had changed them but I read the book and seen the gas setup part and hence threw the question out.

I think the best course of action would me to buy the board for gas bloke (as he seems to be overpriced on that) and hand it over to him.

I was worried at the fact that I done the code lookups of E33/34 and then spoke to him he said not usually that, he came to look at with his apprentice and swapped the air pressure sensor over. It done nothing and when he left he said he hoped that was it..

surely I shouldnt need to suggest stuff :) ?

edit: no tacho/rpm checks done just "looks ok moves freely"
 
I will also give free estimates over the phone but they are based on the information I am given. An estimate is not a quotation!

Dan might go to visit and give a free diagnosis and estimate to complete the repair without charging and leave unpaid and for you to do the repair yourself but I somehow doubt it!

When I have charged and diagnosed the fault then its up to the customer to decide if he wants me to complete the repair ( usually only the cost of parts ) or to get someone else or do it himself.

I think that's a very fair way to deal with customers. You seem to think that someone should come and diagnose free. I would have a full time unpaid job if I did that!

The setting on the PCB depends on other boiler components and the PCB itself. If that was not the case then your electronics experience would tell you that it would not need pots!

I still don't think its your PCB but then I have not been paid to visit you. You still seem convinced that it is. So go ahead and risk your money if you wish to.

Your using "ffs", I find abusive to me. Posters here are not meant to be abusive!

Tony
 
Nope dont think you should come and do diagnostics for free, never said that. Its different when no proper diagnostics are done and its a try this try that attitude that could cost me the boiler new price in no time.

The settings on the PCB - thats why I asked how critical they are for initial setup.

I have been told by rgi that its likely the PCB, pity he cant do some proper diagnostics or have a spare one to confirm.

f*s just ranting not meant to be nasty :)

I looked at forums to try to help out the rgi and to speed up fix and there is a fair amount of talk about that boiler, fixes are Fan, Air pressure sensor, some people taking out flue restrictors, and like said above the 2 sensors were swapped. I could speculate that the gas valve that controls the gas is faulty but gas goes off suddenly, so PCB relay etc. fault seemed a possibility but I am guessing at the exact symptoms??. If it was a washing machine or something id get in there :LOL:
If you have any more suggestions to chuck his way then by all means, im not gonna do it :) A new boiler was hinted at as this one is a bit underpowered for my water pressure but this one ive had for 7 years and wanted to fix it for now, pockets not deep enough for full new.
If I get a PCB about 130 plus 40-80 for him to fit it I hope this solves but if not I wont be happy, and getting cold soon.

I think that's a very fair way to deal with customers. You seem to think that someone should come and diagnose free. I would have a full time unpaid job if I did that!

The setting on the PCB depends on other boiler components and the PCB itself. If that was not the case then your electronics experience would tell you that it would not need pots!

I still don't think its your PCB but then I have not been paid to visit you. You still seem convinced that it is. So go ahead and risk your money if you wish to.

Your using "ffs", I find abusive to me. Posters here are not meant to be abusive!

Tony
 
I am sure that's exactly what he does and why he has never had a problem.

When someone like me charges to diagnose the fault then I am sure that its a correct diagnosis and would never charge anyone for a part not needed to repair.

Your guy is clearly a "parts changer" as we call them who has little diagnostic skill.

I have to get it right or otherwise I would end up with a pile of misdiagnosed parts which cost me a lot of money.

Of course it usually only takes me a few minutes to diagnose the fault in most cases but as I charge a fixed diagnostic fee I have to take as long as it needs! That has only occurred three times in last 10 years so is very rare.

Once it took three hours and was a break in the copper wire in a pvc insulated wire. It was my fault because I measured the continuity on resistance and the carbon inside gave a reading of 1k which I did not read exactly and just thought because there was a reading the wire was OK.

The other two cases were warranty calls for a manufacturer where two different but rare faults caused unexpected results. One was only found when a boiler had to be returned to the manufacturer.

Tony
 

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