Back boiler for stoves and open fire wanted

So although the stove pipe diamater is 125mm, you'd add an adaptor, and then use a 150mm flue liner.

But I've never seen such a mismash of instructions before. This set says use a 5" "if required"; now what the hell does that mean. And can they say that a 4" flue was okay for a straight liner. ???????????????
Yeah, that's the problem with a lot of stoves.. They are imported from all over the world and may comply with the requirements of the country where it is made... The Clarke is made in China and is as basic as it gets and comes with a 5 inch spigot, I usually fit an increaser straight on the top and take them up in 6 inch... Scandinavian stoves usually come with a spigot that allows the vitreous to sit snugly outside of the spigot but UK requirements require the vitreous to sit inside of the spigot, so a lot of importers get the manufacturers to provide an alternative UK spigot to be fitted on installation... Lots of stove brochures show the flues passing through walls at 90 degrees which isn't permitted, so given the DIYers see the pictures and instructions written by people who are translators, not installers, then it is understandable that there is so much confusion and so many non compliant installs..Worse still, you get called out to sign them off when the installer discovers that they need an install cert to sell the house.... The stove usually gets ripped out at that stage
 
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They are not guidelines, they are requirements. You have shown no understanding of how dangerous a solid fuel appliance can be if not correctly fitted... In comparison to an oil or gas boiler a solid fuel appliance produces massive quantities of carbon monoxide. They have no overheat cut out devices and they are designed to be installed in a certain way. It is not my way or an other way, it is the right way or the wrong way, one way will put you at risk of hurting yourself. From my information on the pipework to a boiler a reasonably competent DIYer would be able to understand what I meant and if unclear would ask me to clarify a certain point, you, I feel overestimate your own abilities and if after my instruction you were to hurt yourself or family, then I could well be held liable. There seems to be no aspect of your proposed project that you are capable of doing safely
 
Classic classic project fear! Just another example that we are all being lied to by these experts (and I guess you must be one of them).
Just think man kind has been lighting fires inside clay thatched houses for the last 20,000 years; that is untill you came alonng that is.
Dont want to sound rude now but what a load of old rubish
 
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20,00 years ago, that man's thatched hut wasn't quite so air tight as a modern house. The visible smoke and invisible carbon monoxide are soon replaced by fresh air.

Nozzle
 
I used 22mm for the flow direct to my heat leak rad. 15mm on the return. But no rad valves fitted. Never knew 22mm was a requirement.
But fitted a restriction valve on the return that operates without auxillary power to give the cylinder priority. Another restriction valve is fitted to the cylinder that operates without auxillary energy.
The original time served plumbers used 15mm on a different one and it worked fine.
I also never fitted one of those stoopid metal liners. That will eventually fail.
And of course my f&e is plastic.
Like the one that the time served guys fitted many moons ago.
 
Thanks but I don't want another log burner I just want to adapt the one I have (there is no designed back boiler for it)
And I am aware of the risks of fitting such a thing myself.


WARNING! AN ACCREDITED HEATING ENGINEER MUST CARRY OUT THE INSTALLATION OF THIS STOVE. ALTERNATIVELY, SHOULD A NONACCREDITED ENGINEER UNDERTAKE THE INSTALLATION, YOUR LOCAL BUILDING CONTROL OFFICER WILL BE REQUIRED TO APPROVE THE COMPLETED INSTALLATION UNDER BUILDING REGULATION “J”.
IT IS AN OFFENCE UNDER UK LAW, NOT TO COMPLY WITH THIS MANDATORY REQUIREMENT. IF THE STOVE IS NOT FITTED CORRECTLY BY AN APPROVED PERSON, IT
COULD RESULT IN A HOUSE FIRE OR CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING.

And can they say that a 4" flue was okay for a straight liner. ???????????????
I think that referes to a square duct / liner having a minimum dimension off 100mm which be a square cross section of 100mm by 100mm
 
A metal flue liner is a temporary repair for a chimney that can't be proven to be safe... Over years, the original lining fails (If there ever was one) and the mortar joints fail allowing the passage of smoke and carbon monoxide into the property... This is why a stainless flue liner is not permitted on a new build... Liners may also be used on a poor performing chimney to correct a design fault
 
This is why a stainless flue liner is not permitted on a new build

In northern Ireland all new builds must have metal liners installed where a stove is fitted. Its a BC requirement.
Easiest cop out would be just to say you're not fitting a stove and might use the opening for an open fire.
 
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In northern Ireland all new builds must have metal liners installed where a stove is fitted. Its a BC requirement.
Easiest cop out would be just to say you're not fitting a stove and might use the opening for an open fire.
Sorry, just to make myself clear, I was referring to a flexi liner... To be honest I think that the fitting of a stainless rigid liner is a very good idea on a new build
 
Classic classic project fear! Just another example that we are all being lied to by these experts (and I guess you must be one of them).
Just think man kind has been lighting fires inside clay thatched houses for the last 20,000 years; that is untill you came alonng that is.
Dont want to sound rude now but what a load of old rubish
Yes, the experts are lying to you (despite gaining nothing from doing so), well done.... :rolleyes::rolleyes:

The regulations are there to reduce the risk of you getting CO poisoning, burning your house down, or causing a steam explosion (amongst other things).

If you want to ignore them and do your own thing then crack on, but don't expect any help from people on here who like to do things properly
 

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