In late September I'll be adding a retrofit UFH to the ground floor of my home (the polypipe overlay system). The installer has experience of the system in his own home and suggests leaving some rads in place as on the coldest of days the UFH might not be able to put enough heat into the room. Floor coverings will be a mix of tile and engineered hardwood.
Any idea how the system will be balanced? I would want the UFH as primary heat source with the rads only coming into play when the temperature differential between what's being asked for and the actual temperature is significant enough. I can obviously ask him but he's on holiday for a fortnight.
And any ideas how I can calculate the potential heat output of the existing rads? Only way I can think of is to go to the screwfix catalogue and looks up single and double rads of similar sizes? I want to replace the old rads with something more modern looking and was thinking of sizing them to roughly half what's currently there as the UFH will make up the difference.
As an aside the floor is block and beam construction with roughly a 2-3 ft cavity underneath with the odd air brick. No signs of any insulation.
So I'll be heating the blocks and some heat loss will occur to the air in the cavity as well. But I'm OK with that; I want shot of the cold floor in the winter!
Any idea how the system will be balanced? I would want the UFH as primary heat source with the rads only coming into play when the temperature differential between what's being asked for and the actual temperature is significant enough. I can obviously ask him but he's on holiday for a fortnight.
And any ideas how I can calculate the potential heat output of the existing rads? Only way I can think of is to go to the screwfix catalogue and looks up single and double rads of similar sizes? I want to replace the old rads with something more modern looking and was thinking of sizing them to roughly half what's currently there as the UFH will make up the difference.
As an aside the floor is block and beam construction with roughly a 2-3 ft cavity underneath with the odd air brick. No signs of any insulation.
