Balancing system correctly
- Thread starter AndrewSwansea
- Start date
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It is all explained in the Domestic Heating Compliance Guide at:
http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_PTL_DOMHEAT.pdf
But all you professionals knew that, didn't you?
It even says that TRVs on their own are not sufficient there has to be a proper boiler interlock!
Incidentally, did the installer insulate the pipe work? It is a requirement for new installations.
To get back to the OP's question, repeated below:
http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_PTL_DOMHEAT.pdf
But all you professionals knew that, didn't you?
It even says that TRVs on their own are not sufficient there has to be a proper boiler interlock!
Incidentally, did the installer insulate the pipe work? It is a requirement for new installations.
To get back to the OP's question, repeated below:
1. If I knock the TRV's on all other rads to a lower heat setting will this effectively mean more flow of hot water eventually reaches the living room rad?
Only slightly.
2. Or do I have to balance the system properly with the lockshield valves?
Much the better way
3. If so which ones do I start off with to work my way across? Ie all top floor first and then ground floor??
Read:
http://www.invensyscontrolseurope.c...F-5323-48E3-BD8B-B33ADB04A2E5/7139/D348v2.pdf
Although it refers to Drayton TRVs, and I doubt if your installer bothered to used that brand from your description of his workmanship, the principle is the same: the TRV needs to be disabled by removing the head and putting on the "decorators cap" (you do have them?) which is set to about a third open.
4. Which way would I turn the lockshield valves to lessen the flow? Clockwise or anti-clockwise?
Clockwise: reduces flow = increased temperature drop across radiator
Anticlockwise: increases flow = increased temp drop
You will need a thermometer to measure the temperature drop. You can get dial types (eg Brannan) but they are very slow reacting to temperature change and are not very accurate. I purchased an infrared one from Maplin for £19.95 (reduced from £49.95) and its just the job
5. I am hoping that I can sort of mimick this with the TRV's rather than getting a spanner out and mucking about
That is what some "heating engineers" hope as well.
Yes it is but, as has been discussed many times on this forum, it is a guide not a law.
The reason it is a best practice guide and not enforceable as a law is that it has Should's rather than Must's which have entirely different legal implications ... Read it again and see what I mean.
See how many ... You MUST do this's you find and let us all know
MW
Yes it is but, as has been discussed many times on this forum, it is a guide not a law.
The reason it is a best practice guide and not enforceable as a law is that it has Should's rather than Must's which have entirely different legal implications ... Read it again and see what I mean.
See how many ... You MUST do this's you find and let us all know
MW
So as not to get off-topic and not answer the OP , I have started a new post!
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Hi
The TRV's are Honeywell and I think the lockshield valves were Pegler.
The pipework that runs in the attic is the plastic type which then goes into copper. The plastic pipe isnt insulated but I dont know whether it needs to ve if it isnt copper? Not sure....
Yes do have the decoratos caps....that is one thing he actually left me! Does that link give a guide to removing the TRV's? I presume this is the end the caps are put on? Not the lockshield end. May just get someone in to do it for me.....probably easier in the long run but am grateful for all the advice
The TRV's are Honeywell and I think the lockshield valves were Pegler.
The pipework that runs in the attic is the plastic type which then goes into copper. The plastic pipe isnt insulated but I dont know whether it needs to ve if it isnt copper? Not sure....
Yes do have the decoratos caps....that is one thing he actually left me! Does that link give a guide to removing the TRV's? I presume this is the end the caps are put on? Not the lockshield end. May just get someone in to do it for me.....probably easier in the long run but am grateful for all the advice
You don't have to remove the complete TRV Just the top part which contains the adjuster. You do this by unscrewing the large knurled chrome nut. No water will escape
Now Honeywell TRVs are different from Drayton as they have the balance adjustment within the TRV. There is a slot in the black ring which surrounds the brass pin. Use a small screw driver to rotate the black ring round the brass pin. The valve is set to maximum so all you can do is rotate clockwise to reduce the flow. With Honeywell you don't use the decorators cap. Set the lockshields full open, then you will not have to remember how they are set if you have to remove the radiator
The Drayton instructions are very helpful about the order for setting the balance. You just have to ignore the parts which are specific to their valves.
A diagram of the innards of a Honeywell TRV body can be seen at:
http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/Catalogue/Non Electric/5.7 V117E.pdf
Just the top part which contains the adjuster. You do this by unscrewing the large knurled chrome nut. No water will escape Now Honeywell TRVs are different from Drayton as they have the balance adjustment within the TRV. There is a slot in the black ring which surrounds the brass pin. Use a small screw driver to rotate the black ring round the brass pin. The valve is set to maximum so all you can do is rotate clockwise to reduce the flow. With Honeywell you don't use the decorators cap. Set the lockshields full open, then you will not have to remember how they are set if you have to remove the radiator
The Drayton instructions are very helpful about the order for setting the balance. You just have to ignore the parts which are specific to their valves.
A diagram of the innards of a Honeywell TRV body can be seen at:
http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/Catalogue/Non Electric/5.7 V117E.pdf
Just to drag up an old thread......anyway after what had happened and anoher question I posted on the flue I was advised to give CORGI a call just to see if they would look into it. No unsafe GAS work but obviously he was not adhering to best practice etc.
Anyway when I told the technical call centre guy he seemed to think it warranted filling in an online complaint form ....one of the things he said when I asked should he have installed a room thermostat, even if it was not mentioned on his quote and the CORGI guys response was "Its like selling a car with 3 wheels, its legal but not fit for purpose...blah blah"
Anyway filled in the form and to cut a long story short I was written back to and told that my complaint did not warrant an inspection even though BENCHMARK form not filled in, no pipe insulation, no room thermostat etc.....
So I arranged today for a Vaillant VT 360F wireless room thermostat to be fitted by a fairly large plumbing company that work with the housing association I work for. I was in work, but the wife said he did not know how to set it up "I dont have time to read the manual - we only fit honeywells normally".......so it is all fitted and appears to be working, I have read through all the instructions etc but something is nagging me in that the three H1 H2 H3 settings on the boiler timer clock and on the room controls are seperate and dont appear to "marry" up? Which takes precedent over the other? I can set them for the same times but I just think that surely if something is wirelessly controlled doesnt it need to intergrate into the existing? I have gone into the installation menu and altered temperatures etc but I honestly dont think the stat downstairs is working alongside the boiler. Cant get the cover off to check the LED status lights, but generally with wireless stats does something need to be done to the wiring on the existing clock to over-ride certain functions etc? Cant see how it would work otherwise, Want to try and have a fiddle before monday when I call the plumbers back as he did say he would ring me tonight (Friday) or Sat morning to explain stuff
Anyway when I told the technical call centre guy he seemed to think it warranted filling in an online complaint form ....one of the things he said when I asked should he have installed a room thermostat, even if it was not mentioned on his quote and the CORGI guys response was "Its like selling a car with 3 wheels, its legal but not fit for purpose...blah blah"
Anyway filled in the form and to cut a long story short I was written back to and told that my complaint did not warrant an inspection even though BENCHMARK form not filled in, no pipe insulation, no room thermostat etc.....
So I arranged today for a Vaillant VT 360F wireless room thermostat to be fitted by a fairly large plumbing company that work with the housing association I work for. I was in work, but the wife said he did not know how to set it up "I dont have time to read the manual - we only fit honeywells normally".......so it is all fitted and appears to be working, I have read through all the instructions etc but something is nagging me in that the three H1 H2 H3 settings on the boiler timer clock and on the room controls are seperate and dont appear to "marry" up? Which takes precedent over the other? I can set them for the same times but I just think that surely if something is wirelessly controlled doesnt it need to intergrate into the existing? I have gone into the installation menu and altered temperatures etc but I honestly dont think the stat downstairs is working alongside the boiler. Cant get the cover off to check the LED status lights, but generally with wireless stats does something need to be done to the wiring on the existing clock to over-ride certain functions etc? Cant see how it would work otherwise, Want to try and have a fiddle before monday when I call the plumbers back as he did say he would ring me tonight (Friday) or Sat morning to explain stuff
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