bath panel

[b21playa]

Hard to choose which section to stick it in, fits under carpentry, tiling and bathrooms

Got a 1700mm x 750mm bath and cant seem to find many decent panels, the plastic one's are rubbish, so thinking of cutting one myself from Plywood

What should be used, mdf or wbp ply?

What can I do for finish, was thinking of tiling it first to match border tiles. Could possible paint spray it to match gloss white cabinet doors

Any help appreciated

 

[xerxes]

If you use MDF, make sure you get the moisture resistant grade. Even then, I wouldn't be sure of using that in a very wet environment.

WBP ply should be better, or you could consider using Aquapanel or a similar product.

 

[Fluffybf]

Ive just tiled mine and i also included a rcessed area in which i fitted a radiator cos theres never a good place to put a rad in a bathroom.
Another option is to stud it out then fit matchboard to it, B&Q do some really nice packs and not too expensive.
Dont ask me what to coat it up with though, Chippy I am, Painter I aint.
Hope this helps

 

[b21playa]

what thickness ply should it be to tile on?

Considering whether to paint ply or tile it

 

[marie27]

Hi B21

I have had tongue and grove in my bathroom as a panel, and its been absolutely fine. It was crafted before I moved in 10 years ago, and its been no problems at all. The wood has not been varnished, painted etc.

All we have been doing, is if there has been excessive spillage (of water), is to pat it down dry, taking off the excess water, and opening the window. I have used soap and water, if a rather 'dirty' bath had been taken.

I have been looking to do it again for the new bathtub which is being installed, but as B&Q have just had a 40% reduction on all bath stuff, I decided to cheat!

Good luck
M

 

[Fluffybf]

I would not use anything less than 9mm wbp with a 2x1 min, 2x2 pref framework behind.

 

[b21playa]

I would not use anything less than 9mm wbp with a 2x1 min, 2x2 pref framework behind.

Can you get WBP mdf?

Was thinking of using 12mm mdf due to its smoother surface

 

[Symptoms]

playa - below is a copy of advice I posted a while ago:

"Make the frame from treated battern, it just needs to be screwed together. Ok, how to tile the panel? Assume you're using exterior grade ply (moisture resistant). DO NOT use wall-tile adhesive to fix the tiles to ply - the tiles may not stick permanently.

Method:
Dry fit panel to framework to make sure of clearances, ease of fitting, etc.
Remove the panel from the framework and lay flat, we usually do this over the bath if space is tight or otherwise on the floor. This is where you tile. Fix the tiles to the ply using solvent GRIPFIL - apply the Grip in a square , say 10 to 15mm in from the edge, around the back of the tile and a dot of Grip in the centre. Set the tiles on the ply by sliding into position, position with spacers, allow to set. Remove spacers, lift panel into position, masonary drill through the tiles to provide holes for your chrome capped screws into the batterns, screw into position, put the caps on (otherwise the threaded holes will get blocked-up with grout. Then grout with waterproof stuff. When all is dry run a bead of decent silicon along underside of bath rim/top of panel intersection.

So you don't tile with the panel in situ."

 

[^woody^]

Hard to choose which section to stick it in, fits under carpentry, tiling and bathrooms

LOL. OT, but this reminds me of some idiotic operatives from a certain local authority.

The plumbers would not do any carpentry as it was not their trade. So when a leak occurred, the plumber would go out and find a bath panel or duct cover, and then request a carpenter.

After waiting, the carpenter would arrive, unscrew a few screws and then go. The plumber did his bit and then the carpenter would have to return to refix the panel.

Ask these plumbers to do a carpentry job as a foreigner on a weekend, and they would bite your hand off

 

[b21playa]

Looked at some mdf today and was not happy with it.

Ply looked stronger but dont think I will be able to paint that

Or I can use pine T&G and then paint it white

 

[awbcm]

MR MDF (Moisture resistant MDF) it is green in colour. All the furniture I make in my business that is painted is manufactured from MR MDF.

Have a look at this thread I replied to. It attempts to explains the various types of MDF

If you wish to use plywood and want a smooth finish then you will need to grain fill it before painting.

You can use softwood T&G and paint it in any colour you like, or what your wife will allow you to paint it in.

What ever material you choice to use the secret to a good finish is in the preparation. You can use 100mm foam rollers for applying gloss, by using a roller you reduce the bush marks and hence give a better looking finish.

 

[b21playa]

MR MDF (Moisture resistant MDF) it is green in colour. All the furniture I make in my business that is painted is manufactured from MR MDF.

Have a look at this thread I replied to. It attempts to explains the various types of MDF

If you wish to use plywood and want a smooth finish then you will need to grain fill it before painting.

You can use softwood T&G and paint it in any colour you like, or what your wife will allow you to paint it in.

What ever material you choice to use the secret to a good finish is in the preparation. You can use 100mm foam rollers for applying gloss, by using a roller you reduce the bush marks and hence give a better looking finish.

how to fill the grain>

 

[awbcm]

MR MDF (Moisture resistant MDF) it is green in colour. All the furniture I make in my business that is painted is manufactured from MR MDF.

Have a look at this thread I replied to. It attempts to explains the various types of MDF

If you wish to use plywood and want a smooth finish then you will need to grain fill it before painting.

You can use softwood T&G and paint it in any colour you like, or what your wife will allow you to paint it in.

What ever material you choice to use the secret to a good finish is in the preparation. You can use 100mm foam rollers for applying gloss, by using a roller you reduce the bush marks and hence give a better looking finish.

how to fill the grain>

With a grain filler dear sir with a grain filler;

Grain filler is a very fine wood filler which is spread thinly over the surface of the timber or man made board at the same time working into the grain. When dry you sand off all the excess.

I would use a very cheap single pack water based wood filler. Or use polyfiller type filler.

On a personal note I would go with MR MDF and if you want a decorative finish like T&G then go for something like this

When using any man made board its all in the finishing especially the edges. With plywood, particleboard (chipboard), blockboard or MDF I prime the edges with a exterior grade PVA wood glue when set apply iron on edging and then you can paint the not only the face but also the edges.

I am based on the door step of our second city and can supply you with a bath panel size of T&G MR MDF the later part of next week when I have taken delivery of my new stock if this helps.

 

[gcol]

12mm WBP ply is fine if you want to tile it. Or if you want the wood look, you can get oak faced ply - that looks pretty good.

 

[b21playa]

Decided to buy 12mm WBP ply in the end.

Made a frame and cut ply to fit. Just got to tile the thing today. Got to overhang one end of the tile so they meet up in the corner neatly

Made something similar in the kitchen to hide the pipes for the boiler and has turned out good apart from the fact I used 4/6mm ply which is a bit bendy, so may double it up to make it sturdy.

Ive drilled some hole in the tiles is a tile bit and fitted screws with plastic caps to hide them