Bathroom Installation

[cartman44]

Hi All,

I am going to attempt to fit my new bathroom suite. The previous owners of the house had changed the layout of the bathroom and I am going to put it back to how it was, therefore I know that the water pipes, waste and soil pipes are all exactly where I want them. I have a few questions though if anyone can help:

1) Is there much difference or advantage to using compression fittings or soldering?

2) I currently have an electric shower and wish to fit a mixer shower ran off the combi. Is it ok to branch off the bath taps to feed the shower?

3) As the shower will be made of metal will I have to earth it? (same for all of the taps?)

4) I will need to remove a radiator to replace tiles. I assume I have no choice but to drain the system to do this but how do I go about doing this and then re-commisioning it. I have a Vokera Compact 24 combi.

5) I am wondering what to do if the height of the current soil pipe branch doen't match the height on the new toilet? Basically if its only a little off. Can you buy flexi connectors for this? Any advice?

6) When tiling the bath/basin is it best to fit the furniture and tile around or tile the wall and fit furniture to it?

7) Any advice on testing the integrity of the plumbing for leaks before fixing all of the suite into place?

8) Any general advice? I have read the how to guides but you can't beat experiance. I know this prompts the debate to get a plumber to do all this but due to cash flow it aint much of an option............ or is it? If this simply is a matter of connecting the suite as all pipes in correct location would it cost much (or is that too much of an open ended question?

Thanks for your help.

Mark

 

[RobertDIY]

I am currently doing the same project,

This is what i have learnt,

1) I have used both in the past (I am a DIY'er) Though i have seen some bad media on compression, so i am moving on to the tried and tested soldering, i got a Bernzomatic 700oT with propane to make my job easier

2) When you get a mixing shower thermostatic controls are used, you Could run from the hot cold taps for supply to the thrmostatic control, though you need to include a PEV (pressure equalising valve) alternatily you could use a bath filler (more eligant)

3)Cross bonding is needed - consult an electrician if needed

4)You can isolate the rad with the valves though if one is faulty you will make a right mess, my practice is to drain system just in case.

5) Yes you can get different connectors and they all have a little play anyway

6) Always tile a bath in. The toile and sink is up to you, though i fit after as its easier as no small tile cuts needed + if you ever want to change the toilet sink no problem

7)for plumbing pipes i dont know, usually i have 3 people one on stop cock + 2 spotters just in case looking for water, i.e dont fix floor boards or cover pipes till you verify no leaks. Sink and bath wastes can be tested in the back garden to make sure fixings are water tight when plugs are in place. when plunbing i have learnt clean everything with wire wool, brushes and make sure everything is spotless, do it right, dont rush (if you rush it will leak in my experiance) and relax




Hi All,

I am going to attempt to fit my new bathroom suite. The previous owners of the house had changed the layout of the bathroom and I am going to put it back to how it was, therefore I know that the water pipes, waste and soil pipes are all exactly where I want them. I have a few questions though if anyone can help:

1) Is there much difference or advantage to using compression fittings or soldering?

2) I currently have an electric shower and wish to fit a mixer shower ran off the combi. Is it ok to branch off the bath taps to feed the shower?

3) As the shower will be made of metal will I have to earth it? (same for all of the taps?)

4) I will need to remove a radiator to replace tiles. I assume I have no choice but to drain the system to do this but how do I go about doing this and then re-commisioning it. I have a Vokera Compact 24 combi.

5) I am wondering what to do if the height of the current soil pipe branch doen't match the height on the new toilet? Basically if its only a little off. Can you buy flexi connectors for this? Any advice?

6) When tiling the bath/basin is it best to fit the furniture and tile around or tile the wall and fit furniture to it?

7) Any advice on testing the integrity of the plumbing for leaks before fixing all of the suite into place?

Any general advice? I have read the how to guides but you can't beat experiance. I know this prompts the debate to get a plumber to do all this but due to cash flow it aint much of an option............ or is it? If this simply is a matter of connecting the suite as all pipes in correct location would it cost much (or is that too much of an open ended question?

Thanks for your help. [/color]

 

[kjacko]

I'll answerwhat i can;

1) Is there much difference or advantage to using compression fittings or soldering?

I find this depends on space confines as to which method you use. I can't solder for toffee so i use speedfit/pushfit or copper compression. Never really had a problem as long as speedfit/pushfit are pushed in correctly and compressions are cleaned and tightened adequately.

4) I will need to remove a radiator to replace tiles. I assume I have no choice but to drain the system to do this but how do I go about doing this and then re-commisioning it. I have a Vokera Compact 24 combi.

No, just close each valve on each end of the rad, unscrew the joints and take it off. As its a bathroom rad its probably small, so you could easily do it on your own by putting a thumb over one open end and tilt the rad back towards that end so that the water doesn't pour everywhere when you take it off. You'll only have minimum spillage. Then empty the rad into the bath or outside. When you come to putting it back on, you'll need to check your pressure on the combi boiler and add water to the system and bleed some rads off. I never found the need to drain the system with my combi.

5) I am wondering what to do if the height of the current soil pipe branch doen't match the height on the new toilet? Basically if its only a little off. Can you buy flexi connectors for this? Any advice?

Yep, used a flexible soil pipe on mine, worked a treat.

6) When tiling the bath/basin is it best to fit the furniture and tile around or tile the wall and fit furniture to it?

Tile the wall first, always imho. As RobertDIY said, you can then change your furniture if need be without having a tiled cutout left on the wall.

7) Any advice on testing the integrity of the plumbing for leaks before fixing all of the suite into place?

I've always just fitted it in-situ and hoped for the best. Tbh unless you majorly goofed up a connection you won't get water spurting out everywhere, just open up the valves gradually. I put dry tissue paper around the joint and on the surface below them, this easily shows up wetness if they leak then. Remember once you've had your heating on and off a couple of time, you may get slight leaks in your newly fitted compression joints, so just tighten them up again.

8) Any general advice? I have read the how to guides but you can't beat experiance. I know this prompts the debate to get a plumber to do all this but due to cash flow it aint much of an option............ or is it? If this simply is a matter of connecting the suite as all pipes in correct location would it cost much (or is that too much of an open ended question?

I'd always advocate trying it yourself, its only water. If you struggle too much or bodge it up, then call a plumber and pay the extortionate charges that some demand.

Hope it helps

 

[cartman44]

I am currently doing the same project,

1) I have used both in the past (I am a DIY'er) Though i have seen some bad media on compression, so i am moving on to the tried and tested soldering, i got a Bernzomatic 700oT with propane to make my job easier

2) When you get a mixing shower thermostatic controls are used, you Could run from the hot cold taps for supply to the thrmostatic control, though you need to include a PEV (pressure equalising valve) alternatily you could use a bath filler (more eligant)
[/color]

Thanks for all your advice. Questions though? What exactly is a PEV and how do you fit one?

Secondly, and I don't mean to underplay this by any stretch of the imagination, but is soldering a case of cleaning the joints, adding flux, push fitting together, heating and applying the solder? How do you know when you've used enough?

Cheers Mark.

 

[kjacko]

Hey Mark, apparently soldering is easy Lol, not to me though, when i tried it my joint looked like it had mutated with dried lumps of solder hanging all around it. From watching my friend do it, you only need to apply enough heat and solder for capillary action to suck it in and around the joint thus forming a seal.
I may have another play with it, but my first 2 attempts were laughable, although one did work, but it looked ugly ugly ugly!