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Bathroom painting question (a nice and easy one) :-)

Discussion in 'Decorating and Painting' started by Doran, 2 Jan 2013.

  1. JohnD

    JohnD

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    tell us about the bathroom extractor :confused:
     
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  3. Doran

    Doran

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    ahh that..
    Well, there is one there. but isnt working at the moment (I only got the flat recently so its on the list) But i always shower with the window open and leave it like that for 10 mins after.
    Is this not sufficient? (for now anyway)
     
  4. JohnD

    JohnD

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    aha!

    the wet towels and wet shower tray will continue to deliver water vapour into the room for an hour or two.

    the airflow from an effective extractor will suck water vapour from the top of the room (it is lighter than air, so it rises) to be replaced by warm dry air from the rest of the house, through the gap under the door.

    a window might blow air out, or might blow it in so the steam spreads throughout your home.

    Apart from people who have a psychological aversion to ventilation, extractors are more likely to be used as they don't cause cold draughts. If they are wired to come on with the bathroom light, and to run on for 20 minutes or so, they will help keep the bathroom dry and odour-free.

    A fan should not be noisy. If it is, buy a new one with ball-bearing motor, preferably a centrifugal one.

    A typical bathroom fan will run for 50 hours on 12p worth of electricity.
     
  5. opps

    opps

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    Assuming that the walls are only damp because of the condensation, I would go for Dulux Trade eggshell not the diy Dulux stuff. It will cost a little more but will cover in 2 rather than 3 coats (making it cheaper). the sheen level will be slightly higher than your existing paint but it will be more washable.

    I guess that the walls were pretty much ok and that you are primarily aiming for a colour change. most trade stores are happy to deal with DIYers and will be able to colour match.

    good luck
     
  6. Doran

    Doran

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    JohnD - great info on the extractor fan. I'll be getting mine sorted soon.

    Opps - Yep, its purely cosmetic. Although I did notice a few orangy (moisture?) type droplets behind the cabinet where condensation would have collected.
    Thanks for suggesting the option of Dulux trade. but having just now got a quote for the mouldshield version, its £72 (5L minimum size) I fear its just got a bit too expensive.. Buggr!
     
  7. opps

    opps

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    Hi kuztardd

    The orange is probably just the result of the bacteria that thrives on the shower gel (once it end up as steam). It's the same stuff that turns grout orange.

    TBH I only ever use the bog standard DT eggshell. My downstairs shower ceiling and walls get pretty wet as the water condenses on them immediately after showering and have never presented a problem. The orange droplets just wipe away.

    John is bang on wrt an extractor. The shower room mentioned above has an AirFlow Icon extractor with both a PIR and humidistat. I'm sure that PIR units see dead people, mine goes off at the oddest times but I don't care. i opted against the light switched controlled version, I knew that no one would bother turning the light on to shower in the middle of summer. The PIR helps to remove smells created by people using the toilet and the humidistat makes the fan run until it is happy that the moisture level is ok. JohnD mentioning the airflow under the door reminds me that I really should find a way of increasing airflow into the room from the rest of the house (without She Who Must Be Obeyed noticing)

    The areas behind furniture will also suffer more as they have less airflow.

    I completely understand you not wanting to buy the expensive version of the eggshell. 2.5L of WB eggshell goes a long way. I have no idea how effective the bacterial qualities of interior anti-mould paints are, I guess that the effect is limited by the amount of agents that they would be legally be allowed to "leak" into the air.
     
  8. opps

    opps

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  9. Doran

    Doran

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    Eww, that bacteria looks funky. I better refrain from licking the walls then :LOL:
    Looks like I better get bleaching!

    I had a look at my existing non-working fan and although there is voltage when light is on, there is nothing when the light goes off (this was tested in the little box in the picture below, top left).
    But either way, the unit doesnt work at all.

    I have a hole in the window so would have to fill that but I like the thought of having one that isnt run purely on the lightswitch.
    Does the one you mention sit in windows?
    (and is it this version: clicky LINK here)

    [​IMG]
    wow the bathroom certainly looks barren!
     
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  11. JohnD

    JohnD

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    look at the "cubic metres per hour" extract rate. 80cm/h is about the lowest for a cheap fan. Bigger ones can be double that, so more effective.

    window-mounted fans are quite rate now, they usially fit in the wall. Double-glazed windows make it more difficult to fit a window fan.

    you might be able to fit a better fan in the cavity in the wall where the airbrick is.

    Is yours a flat or a house? Have you got access to the loft above the bathroom? Where are the bath and showe in relation to the fan and the airbrick (how far away?)
     
  12. Doran

    Doran

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    I'm in a flat. 2nd and 3rd story up and am the top level with access to the loft.

    The shower/bath is just to the right of the picture. You can just see the shower curtain. (and the room is also the length of the bath, so its a tiddly room really)

    If I am totally honest, I'd much rather fill the window hole that's there, otherwise its a glazing job, and then making holes in the airbrick. (and with huge leaseholder bills over the next 3 years >£20k, I'm trying to not go too bonkers on the cost on my DIY) :eek:
     
  13. opps

    opps

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    I have the larger version of the one that you linked to.

    You will have to pay extra for the humidistat/PIR module.

    http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Ventilation_Index/4_Inch_Fans/index.html

    The fan is not super quiet, most of the nose is the sound of the air rather than the motor, the smaller one would be quieter.

    As JohnD suggested i would be inclined to use the hole in the wall and reglaze the window. It looks like you have crittall windows. You should be able to reglaze by opening the other window (ie. no ladder required).

    I am guessing that the tranformer has a permenant live running into it, does the fan have an over-run timer?

    Given that the new fan will only be about 10" away rom the transformer I assume that you will not need a low voltage fan but you may want to check the zone requirements.

    http://www.fantronix.com/acatalog/bathroom_Zones_Explained.html
     
  14. Doran

    Doran

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    yep, its a zone 2 area.

    After volt testing it last night it would seem that when the light switch is off, there is no longer any power to the unit at all. But there is wiring present.. somethings is wrong there!

    But the unit doesnt work at all, so no idea if it had an over run timer or not. The motor has probably died.

    To be honest, I'd rather not change the position of the fan due to all the extra work; glazing, putty, knocking air block out, brick work, cement etc and the extra tools required. and from 3 floors up. As much as I love a project, I imagine its a lot of extra work and the cost too. Unless there is a simple way I am not aware of?

    Is it mainly due to the position of the fan. The higher up the better I guess?
     
  15. opps

    opps

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    Is the vent outside in zone 2? Have you removed the grill to see if it is just a void with an air brick on the outside? If yes then fitting the icon would be lemon squeezy. It has its own back draft built in to the front and thus the airbrick can be left as is. All you will need to do is back fill around the sides of the extractor with either cement or ply and expanding foam (you need something to screw the fan into)
    If the wiring running to the transformer is 4 core you should be able to pick up the perm live from the light switch and fused spur.

    Btw have you checked that you have 12v from the transformer?

    At a push you could leave the dead fan where it is.

    If you do replace the existing fan, be warned, do not overtighten the screws, I did once and cracked the glass. I replaced the glass, tried to cut a new hole and broke the new glass. In the end I got the glazer to make the hole. We live and learn ;)
     
  16. Doran

    Doran

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    Hi there again,

    Great advice, thanks. Ill try not to break the window pane :)

    re: the grill. its full on bricked in (a brick airvent), so I cant remove it easily, so I think i will stick with a window fan unfortunately.

    I have just measured the distance for zoning.. It's 52cm from edge of the fan to the start of the orange tiling. Would you say that is zone 2/3? (as it is recessed a bit behind the shower)

    The fan fitted has a 240v supply, there is no transformer.

    Ive tested the fan and it is dead but I am curious about the wiring though. It's only 3 wires. I've started a different thread for that issue though: so if you have any input on that, I'd be happy.
     
  17. njdeco

    njdeco

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    Just use Zinsser perma white. Hardest wearing and mould proof paint I have worked with.
     
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