Bathroom Radiator As Bypass

[Silver_Hawk]

The good news is that I've finished the bathroom in my house and it has some nice new s/steel electric towel rails.

The bad news is that maybe I shouldn't have been so hasty in ripping out the rather old hot water towel rail.

I have a Potterton Kingfisher MF RSL 100 floor standing boiler and having downloaded the Installations and Service Manual (for bed time reading), I can now finally understand most of the plumbing in our large house.

In the screenshot below, taken from the manual, you can see we have an Open Vented Gravity Domestic Hot Water & Pumped CH System. And that the bathroom radiator I ripped out was serving as a bypass on the gravity circuit...I assume to counter the Zone Valve which we do have fitted on the gravity circuit...same as diagram.

Manual makes it clear we must have a bypass. But I don't want to have to install another radiator to server this purpose.

The two tails that used to serve the ripped out radiator are still available in the attic (it was fed from up there). Is it acceptable to connect the two tails together with a lockshield between them? Is seems that would meet the bypass requirement...

Many thanks for your help.

Paul

 

[Silver_Hawk]

Bump!

 

[gas4you]

The pipes and lockshield will not be able to get rid of excess heat like the rad would.

 

[Silver_Hawk]

The pipes and lockshield will not be able to get rid of excess heat like the rad would.

Thanks Dave...so what should I do if I don't want to use a rad?

Ideally, I'd prefer not to generate excess heat that then needs to be got rid off somehow. So in the summer, when CH is off, and Zone valve is shut because hot water is at temperature, how can I make sure there is no or little excess heat being produced? Is it just a matter of turning down the thermostat on boiler?

Thanks

Paul