Bathroom tap replacement

[jonnyw]

We have 2 x 20 year old bathroom hot taps that are both leaking, and need replacing.

I think a tap reviver kit is out because the existing spouts are really tarnished so wouldn't match (and wife now likes the idea of chrome). The taps (full turn pillar) are currently connected direct to copper pipes. What I'm wondering (as a novice) is whether I should replace the taps directly onto the existing copper pipes, or cut the pipes back and fit flexi hoses and isolation valves (to make future maintenance/isolating the water to that tap easier in the future).

I'm after opinions as to:
- which will be the easiest job with least risk for a novice?
- what is best in the long run (tap connected direct to copper, or cut back and attach an isolations valve and flexi-hose, and attach tap to that)? What would you recommend a family member/close friend do?

 

[terryplumb]

Fit new taps to existing tap connectors with new washers.
The amount of times you will need to isolate the taps will not be often ,so if you are not confident in fitting isolators then don't bother. Flexi hoses are no where near as good as rigid copper ,and will never match the flow rate.

 

[jonnyw]

Thanks for the advice, it makes sense.

I've ordered the parts (taps + replacement fibre washers, + basin wrenches etc) and am ready to go this weekend. Should I be using PTFE tape on the tap thread, or just letting the fibre washer do its thing?

Also, is wetting the fibre washer in warm water before putting it on good a good idea?

 

[terryplumb]

No need for PTFE or putting washers in water. Are your taps water mains fed ,or from gravity ( loft tank and cylinder)?
Have you established how to isolate hot and cold water ?

 

[jonnyw]

It's mains fed (recently switched to combi boiler - though the old cylinder system used a thermal store, which I believe did away for the need for a loft tank) so it looks like I'll be filling up pans and the kettle, then using the stop cock under the sink to essentially isolate the whole house.

 

[terryplumb]

It may be worthwhile to get a couple of isolation valves in hindsight. If you run into a problem at the weekend ( limited places open etc) you could have no water ?? At least you could isolate the pipes and put water back on to house. Just a thought jonnyw

 

[johnny2007]

If pipes are not visible, cut copper and install hep2o isolating valves: simple pushfit into copper.
Mind you it will need to be cut with a tool and made it shine again with steelwool.
Then from there you can continue well in the knowledge that if something goes wrong you can isolate those pipes and use all the other taps in the house.

 

[jonnyw]

It may be worthwhile to get a couple of isolation valves in hindsight. If you run into a problem at the weekend ( limited places open etc) you could have no water ?? At least you could isolate the pipes and put water back on to house. Just a thought jonnyw

The thing that put me off with isolation valves and hoses and led to my post here was the sheer number of options (that I admittedly didn't understand). e.g. Wras approved, full bore etc etc. - and the fact it was looking to potentially add £15-20 per pair of taps,

Are you suggesting using them only if I run into a problem?

Would a pair of these be suitable for such a temporary fix?
https://www.toolstation.com/isolating-valve-cp/p36879

Edit: someone has lent me a pipe cutter if necessary.

 

[terryplumb]

If your pipework is 15 mm they would be fine . Fitting them would need you to cleanly cut the pipes ,and ammend the pipe length to tap. So more work, and adds two more joints on each pipe. As I said in first post ,not really necessary ,but handy to have if things go pear shaped.

 

[jonnyw]

For less than £2 it's not a bad insurance policy!

 

[terryplumb]

Is it basin taps ,or bath taps that you are replacing ,or both ?

 

[jonnyw]

Just the basin, for now at least, though my worry is once I've replaced these, the cistern lever and the waste, my wife will want the bath to match!

 

[terryplumb]

Yep ,thats a safe bet

 

[johnny2007]

I don't use those cheap valves anymore.
After a few years if disturbed they tempt to leak at the slot.
Also they're not full bore, so if the system is not pressurised they cause some trouble.
I prefer the full bore, although more expensive, but as said, if hidden i use hep2o, simple push fit and so far not one failed.

 

[jonnyw]

Well the new taps went in over the weekend, so thanks for the help/advice

Surprisingly some of the bits I thought would be difficult (removal of old taps) was a lot easier than I expected, whilst other bits were harder.

The tap threads were a few mm longer, but I just about managed to get them on to the old copper pipes (hopefully without causing too much strain!).

Removing the old fibre washers (which had turned whitish, and fused to the pipe) was a nightmare, and took about 40 mins of scraping per pair of taps before they would come off. I'm not sure if it was the scraping that did it, or if the time it took me to do it allowed them to dry out, which made it easier to remove - but either way it was hard on my back!. Are there any hints for old rotted fibre washer removal in the future?