Battens for kitchen

[OldKettle]

Hi,
Due to various issues, I need to batten and plasterboard one wall in a kitchen. The other walls can be just tiled.

Can anybody please advise on the type of wood that I should use for the battens?

Can I just use studwork timber? Does it need to be treated?

Are any of the below appropriate?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Studwork-CLS-Timber---38mm-x-63mm-x-2400mm/p/107177

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Treated-Studwork-CLS-Timber---38mm-x-63mm-x-2400mm/p/133657

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Sawn-Kiln-Dried-Timber---47mm-x-47mm-x-3-6m/p/9000036494

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Treated-Sawn-Timber---38mm-x-47mm-x-2-4m/p/9000036484

 

[foxhole]

Any of those could be used ( though expensive), does not need to be treated , if you are installing units to wall then backing plasterboard with 9mm osb is advised, gives secure fixing anywhere on wall .

 

[OldKettle]

Thank you. I will just use the cheaper studwork timbers then.

Any of those could be used ( though expensive), does not need to be treated , if you are installing units to wall then backing plasterboard with 9mm osb is advised, gives secure fixing anywhere on wall .

I will be installing wall units, and had planned to put horizontal timbers in the appropriate locations. I guess that the OSB will give more flexibility.

Do I simply fix the OSB to the battens and then the plasterboard to the OSB?

 

[SFK]

Old Kettle,
See here for similar question asked a few days ago (noting that these are shallower battons than you are considering):
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/battening-out-bathroom-wall.520471/#post-4347479
You should read this link as others made good points to/against my response, but my text was as follows:



As a DIYer I tend to use this as it is
- treated wood,
- 25mm deep so can put in 25mm celotex/kingspan between wall and hardibacker,
- nice and wide at 35mm to screw in the two sheets of hardibacker.
- can choose length to best match height of ceiling.
www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Building-Materials/Timber/Treated-Sawn-Timber/c/1000202?q=%3AtopSellers%3AThickness%3A25+mm&text=&25+mm=25+mm#

I screw to wall using framing screws (aka hammerfix screws), putting wood against wall, drilling straight through wood and into wall using a masonary drill bit (dodgy I know but works well), and then putting in framing screw with a hammer.
www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-nylon-hammerfix-6-x-80mm-50-pack/23251

If masonary wall is not flat, then wood has to be pushed forward (otherwise it will simply follow shape of wall and fitted plasterboard will not be flat for tiles). So before finally hammering in screws I check levels with spirit level and put "plastic Packers" between wall and wood to push wood out and make new wall level.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=frame+spacers

I then put 25mm of celotex/kingspan between wood which in my opinion makes room a lot warmer, reduces cold areas on wall and hence reduces mold on tiles.

SFK

 

[foxhole]

Thank you. I will just use the cheaper studwork timbers then.
That’s correct .


I will be installing wall units, and had planned to put horizontal timbers in the appropriate locations. I guess that the OSB will give more flexibility.

Do I simply fix the OSB to the battens and then the plasterboard to the OSB?

That’s it .