Baxi Barcelona lock out

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11 Apr 2006
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Leeds
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United Kingdom
I sort of feel a bit uncomfortable posting this, having just read god knows how many horror stories about this boiler, but if anyone has any suggestions to make I'll remember you for ever!
The boiler's about 4 years old. Had some previous problems with pcb's, but it's been behaving itself for about 18 months. Went to dry-fire lockout a few days ago and wouldn't do anything, so I replaced the flow switch, combustion door seals, electrodes..... and finally the control board (latest version with 4 links) and wiring harness. Now it fires up straight away - pump on, fan runs, sparks and ignites, but then cuts out after about 5 secs. The green light remains lit, no red light. If I turn the knob to reset, or leave the boiler alone so that it tries again, I get the 5 blinks/sec dry-fire.
I've already called one central heating guy, and he suggested that it was the fan packing up. So I bought another one - and guess what?? It wasn't.
The only thing I can think of is that the system's sludged up, but X400 in for a couple of days hasn't done anything (tho' circulating cold of course). Read somewhere in these postings that there's a filter somewhere on the return side, but I'm not sure where to look. It is likely to be sludge problem or any other suggestions before either going out to get a second mortgage or (more likely) second boiler??
 
I've got one too, have you checked the sensing tube I think its part of the gas valve assembly. Mine occationally goes to this and a tap on the square panel where the Baxi timer goes brings it on. Its not a permament fix but could narrow your problem down.
 
Thanks - but not sure which tube you mean. I've checked the ventura pipe to the fan but that's clear.
 
Hello BA , the best advice I can give to you , is to call B axi Heat-team , for a fixed price guaranteed repair . Their number is easily obtained thro a search on their website . The Barcelona can be a very awkward boiler to repair ,and , unless you have an engineer with very good experiance on this boiler , you are throwing money away . The :fuzzy logic : of the p.c.b. , control would take about a week of one finger typing to attempt to explain clearly . I am sorry that I cannot help you any further than the above .
 
clean your electrode assy, as a temp repair.

DONT call heat team as any experienced engineer will replace that part (cost 12 quid for part) If thats what is it is (and it very will likely be).

But potty (Baxi)being potty (Baxi) make it hard to source the part as no job for potty (Baxi)...no profit for them.

£280 quid fix repair for what is a £40 quid job (depending on location).

You do the maths

David
 
Soggy , the guy has already renewed the electrodes ,boiler still not operating . Why waste any more money . See my previous post .
 
Before you all get into an argument.... problem's solved. Still suspecting a sludged up system, cleaned the mid-position valve (black, dirty) and replaced the head. Voila! boiler fired up - for about a minute then went into sulk mode again (the boiler, not me). The flow was incredibly hot and took some time to cool down with just the pump going. To see if the flow valve was working properly, I shorted it out and took off the flow thermastor (keeping the wiring connected) and the boiler kept going until I switched it off. The flow was REALLY hot by now, so thinking what the hell, there's only the pump left, took this off and it was fairly well gunged up. Replaced it, and everything's fine (just as the weather's warmed up).
When you look back, the problem's obvious, and now need to power clean the whole system. Suppose in the end, the boiler was only doing what it's supposed to (though the board did blow).
Anyway, thanks guys for your time.
 
Gunged pump = no inhibitor. Remember to put some in.
Also if there is a Return filter in place, this will be gunged too.
Was the gunge black or brown?
If brown, you have an aeration problem.
 

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