60 degree light flashes fault pressure ok what cand be wrong /
baxi instant combi 105e
- Thread starter paulhstar
- Start date
The fault will be either the pump or the flow proving switch.
Turn the power to the boiler off.
Open the cover - slacken the two screws on the facia and the white cover will slide up.Fully undo the screws to drop the front flap down. On the left hand side of the boiler you will see a black matchbox sized box with two red (i think) wires coming out of it.
Remove the spring clip securing this to remove it. Turn the power on again. With a call for heat HW or CH does the small pin lift and can you feel the pump running/vibrating ?
If no & yes then it is the diapragm on the diverter valve.
Cheers
Turn the power to the boiler off.
Open the cover - slacken the two screws on the facia and the white cover will slide up.Fully undo the screws to drop the front flap down. On the left hand side of the boiler you will see a black matchbox sized box with two red (i think) wires coming out of it.
Remove the spring clip securing this to remove it. Turn the power on again. With a call for heat HW or CH does the small pin lift and can you feel the pump running/vibrating ?
If no & yes then it is the diapragm on the diverter valve.
Cheers
I think you meant to say that if the pump is running and the flow proving switch is not operating then the flow SW diaphragm has probably failed.
My experience is that they hardly even fail and that dirt in the pump impeller is a much more common cause of that problem.
If the pump is OK then its sometimes dirt in the flow SW cavity or a seized gland if the pin is not moving.
But very rarely the diaphragm. In fact I think I can say that I have NEVER had to change that diaphragm because its failed although they sometimes tear when removing them to inspect/clean the cavity.
Tony
My experience is that they hardly even fail and that dirt in the pump impeller is a much more common cause of that problem.
If the pump is OK then its sometimes dirt in the flow SW cavity or a seized gland if the pin is not moving.
But very rarely the diaphragm. In fact I think I can say that I have NEVER had to change that diaphragm because its failed although they sometimes tear when removing them to inspect/clean the cavity.
Tony
done as suggested y beerlover seem to heading in right direction pin doesn,t move recently changed three way valve
Ok, can you do the same again with the flow isolation valve half closed, (that is the left black isolation tap on the 22mm pipe underneath the boiler) does the pin lift now?
Sorry should be in CH demand.
Cheers
Sorry should be in CH demand.Cheers
doesn,t make a difference but have checked it with pliers and the pin moves freely
It is likely the pump has gone. But before you do anything, turn both the flow and return valves (both outer ones) and check that the pump spins. Make sure you cover the pcb housing with plenty of cloth before removing the silver vent screw on the pump; as water will squirt out - not a lot - but these pcbs love water. Put a screwdriver in the hole and see if it turns freely, then turn power on and see if the pump is spinning.
Protect the pcb housing!
Cheers
Protect the pcb housing!
Cheers
pump spinning quite happily although sounds like its got a little air in
by the way the pin never moved on its own
Ok, replace the vent cap & open both valves. Is the auto air vent open - the black thumb screw on the top of the pump?
Is the pressure still ok and has the pin lifted?
If not isolate as before and drain the boiler. there is a black drain valve underneath on the r/h side. Remove the brass cover with the pin in it, just to confirm, it is the bottom one you have been looking at, remove the diapragm and clean any crud out and use a small allen key to clean the hole also. Refit and retest.
I am assuming that as you changed the 3 way valve, you are up to this; if not stop now and get a plumber in.
BTW why did you change the valve? does the system need cleaning?
Cheers
Is the pressure still ok and has the pin lifted?
If not isolate as before and drain the boiler. there is a black drain valve underneath on the r/h side. Remove the brass cover with the pin in it, just to confirm, it is the bottom one you have been looking at, remove the diapragm and clean any crud out and use a small allen key to clean the hole also. Refit and retest.
I am assuming that as you changed the 3 way valve, you are up to this; if not stop now and get a plumber in.
BTW why did you change the valve? does the system need cleaning?
Cheers
hey presto it works gac i,ll get some flush can you recommend a decent one and is there a proper way to use it 
and a big thanks
and a big thanksh/w temp sensor light flashing which one is it can it be tested
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