Beam/block Vs. Solid Vs. Suspended Timber floor for extn
- Thread starter MAJ786
- Start date
Sponsored Links
freddy,
i made no specific recommendation for installing T&G chipboard in the kitchen.
My post notes "T&G chipboard/ply" for a "typical extn".
FWIW, the OP has a kitchen and a dining room extn. in mind.
i made no specific recommendation for installing T&G chipboard in the kitchen.
My post notes "T&G chipboard/ply" for a "typical extn".
FWIW, the OP has a kitchen and a dining room extn. in mind.
looks like he did indeed mean Tile Backer boards not (Bekka's foil/foli boards) e.g. http://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/#/insulations/4529358221
Sponsored Links
Thanks all for replies. To summarise it looks like:
1. Mixing Floors is okay
Okay to mix new solid and existing timber suspended floor.
2. Solid better insulator than timber (for hydro UFH)
To meet Building regs, and get a reasonably warm result, suspended beam and block OR ground bearing slab will be more thermally efficient (require less insulation) than suspended timber, though...
3. Timber floor faster heat-up (for hydro UFH)
"A wooden floor can take up to 30 minutes to come to temperature while a concrete floor can be hours." (http://www.bhl.co.uk/article/2562/BHL+Guide+to+Underfloor+Heating)
3. Beam & Block cheaper than Slab
(Suspended) Beam and block may well be cheaper, but
4. Slab is best "solid" option for this size job
Ground bearing slab will need less space, and be more suited to the size of job (extended area only about 12 sq. m).
5. DPM needed for Solid floors
For both suspended bean & block and ground bearing slabs, existing concrete will need to be excavated to put down a DPM.
Assuming I got the above right - raises some other questions....
a. Will mixing slab and suspended timber be okay for tiling over as one floor. I have concerns that we are more likely to see movement, at least where the old and new meet, if not only on the old timber (though old has been pretty firm, no cracks in existing tiles/grout over 20+years).
b. Will there be a marked difference in warmth of the two (under) floors - I assume the old suspended timber one will leak a lot of heat but be more responsive under foot - even if "Backer Boards" are deployed throughout.
1. Mixing Floors is okay
Okay to mix new solid and existing timber suspended floor.
2. Solid better insulator than timber (for hydro UFH)
To meet Building regs, and get a reasonably warm result, suspended beam and block OR ground bearing slab will be more thermally efficient (require less insulation) than suspended timber, though...
3. Timber floor faster heat-up (for hydro UFH)
"A wooden floor can take up to 30 minutes to come to temperature while a concrete floor can be hours." (http://www.bhl.co.uk/article/2562/BHL+Guide+to+Underfloor+Heating)
3. Beam & Block cheaper than Slab
(Suspended) Beam and block may well be cheaper, but
4. Slab is best "solid" option for this size job
Ground bearing slab will need less space, and be more suited to the size of job (extended area only about 12 sq. m).
5. DPM needed for Solid floors
For both suspended bean & block and ground bearing slabs, existing concrete will need to be excavated to put down a DPM.
Assuming I got the above right - raises some other questions....
a. Will mixing slab and suspended timber be okay for tiling over as one floor. I have concerns that we are more likely to see movement, at least where the old and new meet, if not only on the old timber (though old has been pretty firm, no cracks in existing tiles/grout over 20+years).
b. Will there be a marked difference in warmth of the two (under) floors - I assume the old suspended timber one will leak a lot of heat but be more responsive under foot - even if "Backer Boards" are deployed throughout.
I would usually try to match the existing floor. If there's a timber floor it's much easier to stick a timber floor against it. Same with beam and block. It's also easier to maintain ventilation through suspended floors. Apart from that a ground bearing slab is the best and cheapest option. Unless the sub-floor fill is greater than 600mm. In that case it would be cheaper to go to a suspended floor.
Just agreed with my builder....to DPM over (thin) existing concrete, then concrete, then insulation, then concrete again on top of that with a "mesh". Hydro UFH on top of that, then tiled.
Not enough space to block and beam apparently, without having to drill out existing concrete in the oversight.
In the existing timber floor area of the kitchen UFH will be "under" floor boards. Planning to use insulation between joists (void) just below joist level then notch UFH pipes into joists - this is to keep the profile low and keep step up as low as possible to existing carpeted hallway.
Fingers crossed!
thanks All.
Not enough space to block and beam apparently, without having to drill out existing concrete in the oversight.
In the existing timber floor area of the kitchen UFH will be "under" floor boards. Planning to use insulation between joists (void) just below joist level then notch UFH pipes into joists - this is to keep the profile low and keep step up as low as possible to existing carpeted hallway.
Fingers crossed!
thanks All.
Don't forget the messy extending of the existing underfloor ventilation.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
